Bleeding the Brakes on a 2013 Honda CB1100
Shop parts for a 2013 Honda CB1100 Motorcycle.
How the CB1100’s Brakes Are Set Up
The 2013 Honda CB1100 is a modern retro standard, and it stops with hydraulic disc brakes at both ends. The front circuit begins at a master cylinder on the right handlebar and runs down to the front caliper — or calipers, if your particular bike carries two. The rear circuit is a completely separate system with its own small reservoir, its own pedal-driven master cylinder, and its own caliper at the rear wheel. The two circuits share nothing but the fluid specification, so each one has to be bled on its own, and each has its own bleeder valve.
If your CB1100 happens to be an ABS-equipped example, a routine fluid refresh through the caliper bleeders is still the normal service and works exactly as described below. The ABS unit only becomes a problem when air has been allowed inside it, and that scenario is covered at the end of this article.
Recognizing When a Bleed Is Due
The most common tip-off is feel. A front lever that has gone soft or spongy, or that now travels noticeably closer to the grip than it used to, is telling you something has changed inside the hydraulic system. The same goes for a rear pedal that feels vague or requires more travel before it bites. A lever that slowly sinks toward the grip while you hold steady pressure is another classic symptom.
Look at the fluid as well. Fresh brake fluid is clear; fluid that has turned dark, cloudy, or murky has absorbed moisture and picked up contamination. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls water out of the air over time, and that water lowers the fluid’s boiling point. Under hard or repeated braking, fluid with a depressed boiling point can generate vapor in the lines and give you a lever that goes long or soft right when you need it most. That is why many riders refresh the fluid on a regular interval even when nothing feels wrong.
Any job that opened the hydraulic system also calls for a bleed afterward: new brake lines, a caliper rebuild or replacement, master cylinder work, or a system that was drained for storage. Air gets in through those openings, and only bleeding pushes it back out.
Tools and Supplies to Have Ready
- Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on your master cylinder reservoir cap, poured from a sealed container. Do not substitute a different type, and do not use a bottle that has been open and sitting on a shelf.
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly. A box-end grips the flats far better than an open-end and is much less likely to round the valve.
- A length of clear tubing that slips tightly over the bleeder nipple, long enough to reach your catch bottle.
- A small catch bottle, ideally with a little fluid already in the bottom so the tube stays submerged.
- Rags or shop towels, plus a drop cloth for the floor.
- A syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir.
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws.
- Optional but helpful for solo work: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, either of which reduces the pump-and-hold coordination the job normally requires.
Setting Up Before You Open Anything
Get the bike securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are leaning over it. Turn the handlebars until the front reservoir sits level, because a tilted reservoir will spill fluid the moment the cap comes off. Then cover the painted surfaces, the plastic bodywork, the instrument cluster, and the area around the reservoir with rags. Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact, and a single stray drip can leave a permanent mark.
If a spill does happen, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water rather than waiting until you finish. Keep the rags you use away from painted panels afterward.
Bleeding the Front Brake, Step by Step
- Remove the reservoir cap and the rubber diaphragm beneath it, and set both aside on a clean rag where they will not pick up grit.
- Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Leave a small amount at the bottom so you do not push air into the line through the master cylinder.
- Top the reservoir up with fresh fluid from your sealed container.
- Slip the clear tubing over the front bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle.
- Fit the box-end wrench onto the bleeder valve.
- Squeeze the front lever slowly and smoothly, then hold it in.
- With the lever held, open the bleeder about a quarter turn. You will see fluid and any trapped air travel down the tube.
- Close the bleeder fully before you release the lever. Releasing first will suck air back in through the open valve.
- Release the lever slowly and let it return on its own.
- Check the reservoir and top it off. Repeat the squeeze, hold, open, close, release cycle, topping off as you go, until the fluid coming through the tube runs clean and free of bubbles.
- If your bike has two front calipers, bleed them one at a time rather than both at once. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and finish with the closer one.
Bleeding the Rear Brake
- Open the rear reservoir, remove the diaphragm, and draw out most of the old fluid with the syringe.
- Refill with fresh fluid and attach the clear tubing to the rear bleeder valve, routing it into the catch bottle.
- Press and hold the brake pedal, then open the bleeder about a quarter turn.
- Close the bleeder before letting the pedal return.
- Release the pedal, top off the reservoir, and repeat until the fluid runs clean and bubble-free.
- Keep an eye on the small rear reservoir throughout — it holds less than the front, so it runs low quickly.
Finishing the Job Correctly
Once the fluid runs clean at every bleeder, close each valve snugly with the box-end wrench. Snug is the goal; overtightening can damage the valve seat and create a leak where there was none. Fill the reservoir to the level marking on the body, reinstall the diaphragm so it seats flat, and refit the cap. Wipe down every surface you touched, then inspect the bleeder valves and the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and caliper for any sign of weeping.
Testing Before You Ride
Pull the front lever and press the rear pedal. Both should feel firm and consistent, and neither should creep or sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then, in a safe open area at low speed, apply each brake individually and confirm it engages smoothly and releases cleanly before you ride normally.
When to Stop and Take It to a Shop
If the lever will not firm up after several full bleeding cycles, if it only firms up after repeated pumping, or if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you work, stop and have the bike inspected. Fluid weeping from the master cylinder or caliper, or a lever that never loses its sponginess, points to a seal problem that bleeding cannot fix. And if your CB1100 is ABS-equipped and the reservoir ever ran dry, or the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected, air may now be trapped inside the ABS unit itself. That typically requires a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool, so the bike should go to a shop rather than being bled further at home.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2013 Honda CB1100 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2013 Honda CB1100 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2013 Honda CB1100 Motorcycle.
Shop Stands for a 2013 Honda CB1100 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2013 Honda CB1100 Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
