How To Bleed 2012 Ducati Multistrada 1200S Touring Motorcycle Brakes

How to Bleed the Brakes on a 2012 Ducati Multistrada 1200S Touring

The Multistrada 1200S Touring is a big, fast, heavy sport-touring machine, and its brakes are asked to do a lot of work — loaded luggage, two-up riding, mountain descents, and the occasional panic stop when a deer steps out. A soft lever or a pedal that travels further than it used to is your first warning that the hydraulic system needs attention. Bleeding the brakes is one of the most satisfying DIY jobs on this bike: it is inexpensive, it does not require special tools, and the improvement in lever feel is immediate. This guide walks you through a full fluid flush and air removal on the 2012 Multistrada 1200S Touring, front and rear.

Understand the Brake Layout Before You Start

Your 2012 Multistrada 1200S Touring uses hydraulic disc brakes at both the front and the rear, so both systems get bled in this procedure. The bike is also equipped with an ABS unit, which matters for one important reason: a normal bleed at the caliper bleeders is the correct way to refresh fluid and remove air from the calipers, lines, and master cylinders, but it does not necessarily purge air that has traveled up into the ABS modulator itself. If the reservoir ever ran dry, if a line or the ABS unit was disconnected, or if the system was opened for service, the modulator may need a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool to cycle the pump and valves. Do not attempt to improvise that step at home.

This bike does not use a linked braking system, so the front lever and the rear pedal are independent circuits. That simplifies things: you can bleed one end at a time, in either order, without worrying about a required sequence between them.

When a Bleed Is Due

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air over time. Moisture does two bad things: it lowers the fluid's boiling point, so hard repeated braking can boil the fluid and give you a spongy, fading lever at exactly the wrong moment, and it corrodes the internals of the master cylinder and calipers. That is why many riders refresh the fluid on a regular interval even when nothing feels wrong.

Bleed the brakes if the lever or pedal feels spongy or soft, if the lever now comes closer to the grip than it used to, if the fluid in the reservoir looks dark or cloudy rather than clear, or after any work that opened the hydraulic system — new lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work. A lever that slowly sinks toward the grip while you hold steady pressure is another clear signal.

Tools and Supplies You Will Need

• Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container. Do not substitute a different type.
• A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly — a box-end grips better than an open-end and is far less likely to round the bleeder.
• A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple, plus a small catch bottle to route it into.
• Rags or shop towels, and a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir.
• The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws.
• Optional but genuinely helpful: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, both of which make a solo bleed much easier.

Set Up the Bike and Protect the Finish

Get the Multistrada securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working at the bars. Turn the handlebars until the front reservoir sits level, because an angled reservoir will spill fluid the moment you open the cap. Before you touch anything, drape rags over the tank, the plastics, the instrument cluster, and anything else below the reservoir. Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact, and the damage is permanent. If a drop lands where it shouldn't, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water.

Bleeding the Front Brake

1. Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm, then use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Leave a little at the bottom — never let the reservoir run completely dry, or you will pull air straight into the system.
2. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid from the sealed container.
3. Push the clear tubing onto the front caliper bleeder and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so the tube end stays submerged.
4. Squeeze the front lever several times and hold it firmly against the grip.
5. With the lever held, open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tube. Watch the tube, not the reservoir.
6. Close the bleeder before you release the lever. Releasing with the bleeder open draws air back in through the nipple.
7. Release the lever, then repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release cycle. Keep an eye on the reservoir and top it off every few cycles so it never drops low enough to suck air.
8. Continue until the fluid coming through the tube is clean, fresh, and free of bubbles, and the lever feels firm.
9. If your bike has two front calipers, bleed each one in turn, one at a time, topping off the reservoir between them. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and finish with the closer one.

Bleeding the Rear Brake

1. Open the rear reservoir, remove most of the old fluid, and top it up with fresh fluid.
2. Fit the clear tubing over the rear caliper bleeder and into the catch bottle.
3. Press and hold the brake pedal down firmly.
4. Open the bleeder a quarter turn with the pedal held, let fluid and air escape, then close the bleeder before releasing the pedal.
5. Repeat, topping off the rear reservoir as you go, until the fluid runs clean and bubble-free and the pedal feels solid.

Finishing Up

Once both circuits are bled, tighten each bleeder snugly with the box-end wrench. Snug is the goal — do not lean on it, because overtightening can damage the seat and cause a leak. Fill each reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface that might have caught a drop of fluid. Then inspect the bleeder valves and the banjo fittings at the master cylinders and calipers for any sign of weeping or wetness.

Test the Brakes Before You Ride

With the bike still on the stand, squeeze the front lever and press the rear pedal. Both should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and neither should slowly sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then, before any normal riding, take the bike to a safe, empty area and test the brakes at low speed, building up gradually. If anything feels vague or inconsistent, stop and diagnose rather than riding it out.

When the Job Belongs in a Shop

Some problems are not solvable with a wrench and a bottle of fluid. If the lever will not firm up after several honest bleeding attempts, if it only firms up temporarily after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you bleed, or if you find fluid leaking from the master cylinder or a caliper, stop and have the system inspected. The same applies if there is any chance air entered the ABS unit — for example, if the reservoir ran dry or a line was disconnected. That situation calls for a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool, and it is not a job to improvise on a safety-critical system.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.