How to Bleed the Brakes on a 2010 Honda NT700V
Shop parts for a 2010 Honda NT700V Motorcycle.The 2010 Honda NT700V is a middleweight street bike with hydraulic disc brakes at both ends. The front lever and the rear pedal each operate a hydraulic caliper, and both systems rely on brake fluid that absorbs moisture and collects contaminants over time. This guide walks through a full fluid flush and air bleed at the calipers. If your NT700V is an ABS-equipped version and the reservoir has run dry, or the ABS unit or its lines have been disturbed, a caliper bleed is still the place to start, but air trapped inside the ABS unit may require a shop-level procedure.
When the NT700V Needs a Brake Bleed
A spongy or soft front lever is the classic sign that air or old fluid is affecting the system. The lever may also pull closer to the grip than it used to, or the rear pedal may feel vague and longer than normal. Dark or cloudy fluid in either reservoir is another clear indicator that a flush is due. Any job that opened the hydraulic system—new brake lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work—should be followed by a bleed before the bike is ridden normally.
Even when the brakes feel fine, brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air over time. That moisture lowers the fluid’s boiling point, which can lead to brake fade under hard or repeated use. Many riders refresh the fluid on a regular schedule as preventive maintenance rather than waiting for a soft lever. On the NT700V, treat the front and rear systems as separate hydraulic circuits and give each one its own bleed.
Tools and Supplies for the Job
- Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
- A length of clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder
- A catch bottle for the old fluid
- Rags or shop towels
- A syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
- A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws
A one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder can make the job easier for one person, but neither is required. The clear tubing matters because it lets you watch the fluid for bubbles and color changes as you work.
Set Up the Bike and Protect the Finish
Support the NT700V securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working the lever or pedal. Turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level before you open it. Cover painted surfaces, plastics, and the instrument area with rags, because most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact. Wipe up any spill immediately and rinse the area with water if fluid reaches a painted or plastic surface.
Locate the rear master cylinder reservoir and make sure you can remove its cap without stressing the hose or surrounding parts. Work on one system at a time—front first, then rear, or the reverse—so you are not managing two open reservoirs at once.
Bleeding the Front and Rear Hydraulic Systems
As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from its master cylinder. If your NT700V has a front caliper on each side of the wheel, bleed each one in turn. The rear system has its own caliper and bleeder, and it follows the same basic procedure using the pedal instead of the lever.
- Clean the area around the reservoir cap, then remove the cap and diaphragm. Use the syringe or turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid from the reservoir, but leave enough that you do not draw air into the master cylinder.
- Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap. Keep the cap and diaphragm nearby and clean.
- Attach the clear tubing to the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle. Make sure the tubing fits snugly so air cannot be pulled in around the bleeder.
- Squeeze and hold the front lever, or press and hold the rear pedal, until you feel resistance. Hold steady pressure while you open the bleeder about a quarter turn with the box-end wrench.
- Watch fluid and air move through the clear tubing. Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing first can draw air back into the caliper.
- Release the lever or pedal slowly, then check the reservoir level and top it off with fresh fluid. Never let the reservoir run low enough to pull air into the master cylinder.
- Repeat the squeeze, hold, open, close, and release sequence until the fluid coming through the tubing is clean and free of bubbles. Keep topping off the reservoir throughout.
- If your NT700V has a front caliper on each side, repeat the process on the other front caliper. Then recheck the lever feel and reservoir level.
- Move to the rear system and repeat the same sequence at the rear caliper bleeder using the pedal. Keep the rear reservoir topped off and close the bleeder before releasing the pedal each time.
- When the fluid runs clean and bubble-free at both ends, close each bleeder snugly without overtightening. Reinstall the diaphragm and cap, then clean any spilled fluid from the bike.
Finishing, Testing, and Leak Checks
Fill each reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe the area clean. Check for leaks at the bleeder valves and at the banjo fittings where the lines attach. A dry fitting after several firm lever or pedal applications is a good sign; a wet fitting or a drip means you need to stop and correct it before riding.
The front lever and rear pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Before riding normally, test the brakes at low speed in a safe area and make sure both ends slow the bike predictably.
Troubleshooting and When to Stop
If the lever or pedal will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, or if it firms only after pumping, air is still entering or remaining in the system. Persistent bubbles, fluid leaking from the master cylinder or a caliper, or a lever that continues to sink under steady pressure are reasons to stop and diagnose the problem rather than keep riding. If your NT700V is an ABS-equipped model and the reservoir ran dry, or the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected, the system may need a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool. The same caution applies if your bike is a combined-brake version with additional bleed points and a required sequence—if you are not confident of that sequence, have a shop perform the bleed.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2010 Honda NT700V Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2010 Honda NT700V Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2010 Honda NT700V Motorcycle.
Shop Stands for a 2010 Honda NT700V Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2010 Honda NT700V Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
