How To Bleed 2009 Honda ST1300 ABS Motorcycle Brakes

Bleeding the Brakes on a 2009 Honda ST1300 ABS: A Rider's Step-by-Step Guide

Shop parts for a 2009 Honda ST1300 ABS Motorcycle.

What the 2009 ST1300 ABS Brake System Includes

The 2009 Honda ST1300 ABS uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and the ABS designation confirms an anti-lock unit is part of the system. This model also uses a combined braking layout, so the front lever and rear pedal can influence more than one brake circuit. That matters when bleeding: a combined ABS system can have more bleed points and a recommended sequence than a simple front-and-rear setup. The steps below cover a normal fluid refresh through the caliper bleeders. If air has entered the ABS unit, or you are not confident about the combined system's sequence, stop and have a shop handle it.

When a Brake Bleed Is Due

Bleed the ST1300 ABS when the front lever or rear pedal feels spongy, when the lever pulls closer to the grip than it used to, or when fluid in either reservoir looks dark or cloudy. A bleed is also due after work that opened the hydraulic system, such as new lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work. Even without symptoms, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. That moisture lowers the fluid's boiling point and can lead to brake fade under hard use, so many riders refresh it on a regular schedule. If a reservoir has run dry or the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected, do not treat this as a routine bleed; air may be trapped where a caliper bleed will not reach it.

Tools and Supplies to Stage First

• Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container.
• A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly.
• A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder.
• A catch bottle for old fluid.
• Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir.
• A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws.
• Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or vacuum bleeder to make one-person work easier.

Use only fluid from a sealed container, and do not reuse fluid that has been sitting open or drained into the catch bottle. Keep the work area clean; grit around the reservoir or bleeder can end up in the system.

Preparing the Bike and Protecting Surfaces

Support the ST1300 ABS securely upright on a stand. Turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level before opening it, and make sure the rear reservoir is level for the rear circuit. Cover painted surfaces, plastics, and the instrument area with rags, because most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact. Wipe spills immediately and rinse the area with water. Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm carefully, set them on a clean towel, and keep them free of dirt. Do not open the reservoir until you are ready to work, since brake fluid attracts moisture from the air.

Bleeding the Front and Rear Hydraulic Circuits

Work on one circuit at a time, and keep the reservoir topped off throughout. On a simple hydraulic system, the general practice is to start with the caliper farthest from its master cylinder. On this combined ABS model, there may be additional bleed points and a required sequence; if you do not know that sequence, have a shop perform the bleed rather than guessing. The steps below describe a normal caliper-bleeder refresh.

1. With the bike supported and the reservoir level, remove the cap and diaphragm. Use a syringe or turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid, leaving enough to cover the outlet so you do not push air into the system.
2. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap. Keep the cap and diaphragm clean and nearby so you can close the reservoir between steps.
3. Attach the clear tubing to the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle. Position the box-end wrench on the bleeder so you can open and close it smoothly.
4. For the front circuit, squeeze the brake lever and hold it. For the rear circuit, press the pedal and hold it. Do not pump the lever or pedal repeatedly while the bleeder is open.
5. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Watch the clear tubing as fluid and air move out. Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal; this prevents air from being drawn back into the caliper.
6. Release the lever or pedal slowly. Check the reservoir level and top it off with fresh fluid. Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release cycle until clean, fresh, bubble-free fluid comes through the tube.
7. If the front circuit has more than one caliper, bleed each front caliper in turn. Use the general farthest-from-the-master-cylinder approach as a starting point, but do not invent a sequence for the combined ABS system. If the bike has additional bleed points, follow the correct procedure or hand the job to a shop.
8. Move to the rear hydraulic circuit and repeat the same method with the pedal. Keep the rear reservoir topped off and close the bleeder before releasing the pedal every time. Never let either reservoir run low enough to draw air in; add fresh fluid before the level drops near the outlet, and keep old fluid in the catch bottle for proper disposal.

Finishing the Job Correctly

When clean fluid comes through and no bubbles remain, tighten the bleeder snugly without overtightening. Fill the reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe away any spilled fluid. Check for leaks at the bleeder and at the banjo fittings. A dry fitting after a bleed is not proof of a good seal; put steady pressure on the lever and pedal and look again. Clean the area with water if any fluid touched paint or plastic, then dry it with a clean towel.

Test Before You Ride

The lever and pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before riding normally. If the lever improves only after several pumps, or if it never firms up, do not ride the bike; there is still air or a leak in the system.

If the Lever Will Not Firm Up

A lever that will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, a lever that firms only after pumping, persistent bubbles in the clear tubing, or fluid leaking from the master cylinder or caliper all point to a problem that needs more than another quick bleed. Because the 2009 ST1300 ABS has an ABS unit and a combined braking layout, air that has entered the ABS unit or the linked system may require a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool. The same applies if a reservoir ran dry, a line was disconnected, or the ABS unit was disturbed. In those cases, stop and take the bike to a qualified shop. Brakes are a safety-critical system, and a firm, consistent lever and pedal are the only acceptable result.