How To Bleed 2007 Kawasaki EX500 - Ninja 500 Motorcycle Brakes

Bleeding the Brakes on a 2007 Kawasaki EX500 Ninja 500

What This Job Covers on the EX500

The 2007 Kawasaki EX500 — also known as the Ninja 500 — uses conventional hydraulic disc brakes at both ends. This model does not have ABS, and it does not use a linked or combined braking system, so the front lever and rear pedal each operate their own hydraulic circuit. That makes the job refreshingly direct: you are replacing old fluid and purging air from the front and rear systems separately. There is no ABS unit to cycle and no linked-brake sequence to follow.

Bleeding is not the same as replacing pads or rotors. This article focuses on moving fresh fluid through the hydraulics and getting air out. If you have just installed new lines, serviced a caliper, replaced a master cylinder, or let the reservoir run low, bleeding is the final step that restores a firm, reliable lever and pedal.

When Fresh Fluid and Bleeding Are Due

Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which lowers its boiling point and can make the brakes fade under hard or repeated use. Even if the bike feels fine, many riders refresh the fluid on a regular schedule as preventive maintenance. Bleeding is clearly needed when the front lever feels spongy, pulls closer to the grip than it used to, or slowly sinks under steady pressure. A rear pedal that feels soft or travels farther than normal is the same warning sign.

Look at the fluid in the reservoir as well. Dark, cloudy, or contaminated fluid is a good reason to flush the system. Any repair that opened the hydraulic circuit — new brake lines, caliper work, master cylinder service, or a reservoir that ran dry — also requires bleeding before the bike is ridden.

Tools and Supplies to Gather First

• Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
• A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly
• Clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder valve
• A small catch bottle for used fluid
• Rags or shop towels, plus water for rinsing spills
• A syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
• The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws

A one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder can make the job easier when you are working alone, but the manual lever-and-bleeder method works fine with a little patience. Keep the catch bottle low and stable so the tubing stays submerged and does not draw air back in.

Preparing the Bike and Protecting Surfaces

Support the EX500 securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working. For the front brake, turn the handlebars until the reservoir sits level before you open it. Cover the painted surfaces, plastic bodywork, and the instrument area with rags, because most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact. If a spill happens, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water.

Clean the area around the reservoir cap before removing it so dirt does not fall into the fluid. Have your fresh fluid open and ready before you start the bleed, and plan to keep the reservoir topped off throughout the procedure. Letting it run dry is the most common way to pull air into a system that was previously fine.

Bleeding the Front Brake

Work methodically and keep the reservoir from running low. If your bike is fitted with more than one front caliper, treat each caliper as its own bleed point and finish one before moving to the next; as a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder.

1. Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm, then use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir without letting the level drop low enough to draw air into the master cylinder.
2. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap, leaving room for the diaphragm.
3. Fit the clear tubing over the front caliper bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle.
4. Squeeze the front lever slowly and hold it against the grip.
5. Open the bleeder valve about a quarter turn with the box-end wrench. Fluid and air should move through the tubing.
6. Close the bleeder valve before you release the lever. Releasing the lever with the bleeder open can pull air back into the caliper.
7. Release the lever, then check the reservoir level and top it off with fresh fluid.
8. Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release cycle until clean, fresh fluid comes through the tubing with no bubbles.
9. Keep checking the reservoir after every few cycles. If it gets low, stop and refill before continuing.

Bleeding the Rear Brake

The rear brake on this EX500 is hydraulic, so it gets the same treatment as the front. The reservoir may be smaller and harder to see, so check the level often and use a rag around it to catch drips.

1. Open the rear reservoir and remove most of the old fluid with the syringe or baster.
2. Refill with fresh fluid of the type marked on the reservoir cap.
3. Attach the clear tubing to the rear caliper bleeder valve and route it into the catch bottle.
4. Press and hold the rear brake pedal.
5. Open the bleeder valve about a quarter turn and let fluid and air escape.
6. Close the bleeder valve before releasing the pedal.
7. Release the pedal, top off the reservoir, and repeat until the fluid runs clean and bubble-free.

Finishing Up and Checking for Leaks

When both circuits run clean, tighten each bleeder valve snugly without overtightening. Fill the reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe away any spilled fluid. Rinse the surrounding area with water if fluid touched paint or plastic. Check the bleeder valves and the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and caliper for weeping or wetness. A dry fitting after several lever or pedal applications is what you want to see.

Testing Before You Ride

The front lever and rear pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel and confirm the brakes are not dragging. Before riding normally, test the brakes at low speed in a safe area, such as an empty parking lot. If anything feels soft, inconsistent, or weaker than before, stop and investigate rather than riding further.

Troubleshooting and When to See a Shop

If the lever or pedal will not firm up after several careful bleeding attempts, or if it firms up only after pumping, air is still trapped somewhere. Persistent bubbles, fluid leaking from the master cylinder or caliper, or a lever that slowly sinks under pressure are reasons to stop. Because this EX500 has no ABS or linked brakes, you do not need to worry about an ABS unit trapping air or a linked-brake sequence, but a system that will not bleed cleanly still deserves professional attention. Have a shop inspect it before the bike goes back on the road.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Brake Fluid for a 2007 Kawasaki EX500 - Ninja 500 Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Lines for a 2007 Kawasaki EX500 - Ninja 500 Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Pads for a 2007 Kawasaki EX500 - Ninja 500 Motorcycle.

Shop Stands for a 2007 Kawasaki EX500 - Ninja 500 Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Tools for a 2007 Kawasaki EX500 - Ninja 500 Motorcycle.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.