How the Fuel Line Comes Off and Goes Back On — 2000 Yamaha RT100

Shop parts for a 2000 Yamaha RT100 Dirt Bike.

Fuel line replacement sits near the top of the high-value, low-difficulty maintenance list on a 2000 Yamaha RT100. The hose is short, the fittings are simple, and the payoff is a fuel system you can stop worrying about. What follows covers identifying what you have, spotting a line on its way out, and getting the new one leak-free.

The Carbureted Setup on This RT100

The fuel system on your 2000 Yamaha RT100 uses a carburetor, and the petcock is your shutoff. Fuel flows by gravity alone from tank to float bowl through one hose, secured at each end by a spring pinch clamp or a small screw clamp. That is the whole circuit, and it is why this job is beginner-friendly on a two-stroke machine.

Why This Part Wears Out at All

Two things degrade a fuel line: time, and what sits inside it. Rubber loses flexibility as it ages, and a hose that spent eight years on a 2000 Yamaha RT100 has been hardening the whole time, ridden or parked. Hardened rubber cannot absorb vibration, so it cracks where it stretches over a fitting. Ethanol-blended gasoline is the other half — fuel sitting unused for months attracts moisture and breaks down, which is rough on hose material and leaves varnish behind. Add a dry climate baking out what flexibility remains, and a line that looked fine last season can be brittle by spring.

How a Failing Line Announces Itself

Most failing fuel lines warn you before letting go. The warnings are easy to dismiss, so it helps to know what you are looking at when you walk up to your 2000 Yamaha RT100.

  • A puddle or damp patch underneath. Even a slow weep leaves evidence, usually below the tank or carburetor.
  • A strong fuel smell in the garage. Odor lingering a day after parking is not normal.
  • Visible cracking. Bend the hose gently; fine cracks that open under flex mean the rubber is done.
  • A hose that feels hard or glazed. Healthy line is soft and slightly tacky.
  • Bogging or running lean. A collapsed or deteriorated line restricts flow, and the engine acts like the tank is nearly empty.

Getting Set Up Before You Start

This is a low-cost job, and most of the preparation is about containing fuel rather than turning wrenches.

  • Replacement fuel line in the correct inside diameter and length for your 2000 Yamaha RT100. Match the original rather than guessing — oversized line will not seal on the barb.
  • New clamps. Spring clamps lose tension with age, and a small clamp kit costs very little.
  • Nitrile or rubber gloves. Gasoline absorbs through skin.
  • A fuel-safe drain container and a funnel if you plan to reuse the fuel.
  • Pliers and a small flat screwdriver for spring and screw clamps respectively.
  • Shop rags and eye protection.

Take the fuel handling seriously. Vapor sinks and spreads, so ventilation matters more than most people assume — work outside or with the door up, and kill any appliance with a standing pilot flame. Keep the drain container closed between pours and wait for the engine to cool.

Working the Original Hose Free

Turn the petcock to the off position. On the 2000 Yamaha RT100 this is the valve underneath the tank, and closing it stops fuel at the source. If your petcock has a reserve position, confirm you are fully off rather than on reserve.

Drain what is trapped downstream. The simplest route is the carburetor float bowl drain — run a short hose from the drain nipple into your container, back the screw out, and let the bowl empty. Snug the screw back up afterward so you do not forget it.

Now free the clamps. Spring clamps come off by squeezing the tabs with pliers and sliding the clamp back along the hose; screw clamps need a few turns of a flat driver. With both retracted, twist the hose on the fitting to break the seal, then work it off. Hardened line often resists — a gentle rotating pull beats brute force, and if it truly will not budge, slit the hose lengthwise with a blade and peel it off rather than levering on the fitting.

Installing the Replacement Hose

Use the removed hose as your measuring stick and cut the new one to match. On a 2000 Yamaha RT100 the correct length stays clear of moving and hot components while still absorbing engine movement without pulling on either fitting. Square off both ends with a sharp blade.

Start at the petcock. Work the hose on until the barb is fully buried — a partial seat is the most common cause of a post-repair leak. Warming a stiff hose helps it slide; lubricating the fitting does not. Leave grease and oil out entirely, since either prevents the rubber gripping properly and can end up inside the carburetor.

Then connect the carburetor side and dry-fit before clamping. Mount the tank if it was removed and verify the hose is not trapped, stretched, or resting on the head. Once the routing looks right, place a clamp at each end over the fitting itself and bring it to snug. New spring clamps are hard to overdo; screw clamps need restraint.

Leak Check Before You Ride

With the new line in place, open the petcock and stop. Let the 2000 Yamaha RT100 sit five minutes over a clean surface and use that time to examine both joints under a flashlight. A properly seated hose stays completely dry; anything else needs attention before the wheels turn.

The running test comes second. Fire the engine, let it warm, and look again — expansion and vibration find seals that hold fine cold and still. When you find a weep, resist the urge to overtighten. Disconnect, verify the hose is pushed fully over the barb, and reassemble; that is nearly always the actual problem.

Wrap up by disposing of the drained fuel appropriately and taking another look at the connections after your next ride. On carbureted bikes an inline filter, if fitted, is a serviceable part worth replacing at the same time. For deeper background on keeping fuel lines healthy between seasons, our evergreen guide to fuel line care and replacement is a useful companion read.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2000 Yamaha RT100 Dirt Bike.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2000 Yamaha RT100 Dirt Bike.

Shop Petcocks for a 2000 Yamaha RT100 Dirt Bike.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2000 Yamaha RT100 Dirt Bike.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2000 Yamaha RT100 Dirt Bike.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your dirt bike's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.