How to Bleed and Replace Brake Fluid on a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 650
Shop parts for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 650 ATV.
This MotoSport-exclusive guide walks you step-by-step through draining, replacing, and bleeding the brake system on a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 650. Follow each step carefully, use proper safety gear, and work on a cool, stable machine.
What you need
- DOT 4 brake fluid (new, unopened bottle)
- Clear plastic tubing that fits the bleed nipples
- Brake bleed bottle or catch container
- Wrench set (open/box wrenches for bleed nipples)
- Turkey baster or fluid syringe (optional for removing old fluid from reservoir)
- Clean lint-free rags, gloves, eye protection
- Torque wrench (for caliper or banjo bolts if removed)
- Jack / stands or ATV lift to safely support the Outlander
- Brake cleaner & container for used fluid disposal
Model-specific notes for the 2013 Can-Am Outlander 650
- The Outlander 650 commonly uses DOT 4 brake fluid. Use only quality DOT 4 rated fluid and never mix with DOT 3 or silicone-based fluids.
- Some 2013 Outlanders were equipped with an ABS option or combined braking features. If your machine has ABS, avoid power-bleeding methods that cycle ABS actuators unless following a diagnostic/bleed procedure approved by a dealer technician. Manual bleeding is safest.
- Reservoir location: the master cylinder reservoir sits near the handlebar brake master on the right (front) and a separate reservoir for rear brakes is typically near the frame or integrated in the same assembly depending on model. Confirm which reservoir feeds which circuit before starting.
- Brake hose routing is close to suspension linkages. Avoid kinking or stretching hoses while wheels are off or suspension is cycled.
- Brake caliper hardware on the Outlander uses metric fasteners; keep track of torque values for reinstallation to avoid leaks or seized bolts.
Preparation
- Park ATV on level ground, engage parking brake, and remove key.
- Secure the Outlander on stands so wheels can turn freely if needed. Block wheels that remain on the ground.
- Clean around reservoir caps to prevent contamination. Remove reservoir cap & diaphragm and inspect fluid colordark or cloudy fluid indicates replacement is required.
- Protect painted surfaces – brake fluid will damage paint. Cover with rags or plastic.
Full fluid replacement — reservoir drain method
This method minimizes air entry and replaces the system fluid without removing hoses.
- Using a turkey baster or syringe, remove as much old fluid from the reservoir as possible. Do not let the reservoir run dry.
- Top the reservoir with new DOT 4 fluid to the "max" mark.
- Locate bleed nipples on calipers (front and rear). Have a helper gently pump the brake lever/pedal several times and hold pressure while you open the farthest bleed nipple from the master cylinder. For a typical Outlander layout, start with the rear caliper farthest from the master, then other rear, then front opposite the master, finishing with the caliper closest to the master. If uncertain, bleed the farthest wheel first, then proceed toward the master cylinder.
- Attach clear tubing to the bleed nipple and submerge the other end in a catch bottle partially filled with fresh fluid to prevent air re-entry.
- With the helper holding steady pressure on the lever/pedal, open the nipple about a 1/4 turn until fluid with no visible air bubbles flows into the tubing. Close the nipple before the helper releases pressure.
- Repeat pumping, holding, opening, closing until the expelled fluid runs clear and bubble-free. Keep the reservoir topped with fresh fluid during the entire operation.
- Proceed to the next caliper in the bleed order. Always keep reservoir full enough to avoid drawing air into the master cylinder.
- When all calipers are clear, verify firm lever/pedal feel. Tighten bleed nipples to spec (snugdo not over-torque). Clean any spilled fluid and reinstall reservoir cap & diaphragm.
Full system flush — reverse-suck method (optional, for stubborn contamination)
- Remove old fluid from the reservoir. Attach a fluid transfer pump to draw fluid from each bleed nipple back into a container or pump clean fluid from a supply into the reservoir while opening each nipple sequentially. This technique requires careful control and is best done by experienced mechanics; avoid suction methods that draw contaminants back into the master cylinder.
Power-bleeding caution
- Do not use pneumatic pressure devices on the reservoir unless you are experienced and the pressure is low (under 2 PSI). Excessive pressure can damage seals or force contaminants into ABS modulators.
- If your Outlander has ABS, manual bleeding is preferred. If ABS cycling is required to clear trapped air, follow dealer procedures or contact MotoSport tech support for model-specific instructions.
Post-bleed checks
- Check lever/pedal firmness at normal operating angles. A spongy feel indicates remaining air — repeat bleeding.
- Inspect all fittings, caliper bolts, and hose connections for leaks while applying steady brake pressure.
- Test ride slowly in a safe area to confirm braking performance before normal use.
- Properly dispose of used brake fluid per local regulations. Brake fluid is hazardous waste.
Routine maintenance recommendations
- Replace brake fluid every 1-2 years depending on use, moisture exposure, and storage conditions.
- Inspect brake pads, rotors, lines, and master cylinder for wear, scoring, or corrosion each season.
- Store DOT 4 fluid in a sealed container; brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture from air, reducing boiling point and performance.
- If you ride in water crossings or wet conditions frequently, check and service brakes more often.
Common issues & troubleshooting
- Spongy brakes after bleeding: likely trapped air. Re-bleed, using the farthest-to-nearest sequence and ensure reservoir never runs dry.
- Brake drag after bleeding: check caliper pistons and guide pins for contamination or sticking; clean and lubricate slider pins with a high-temp brake grease.
- Persistent low fluid level: inspect for leaks at calipers, master cylinder, and hose connections.
MotorSport recommends keeping a small brake service kit on hand — replacement bleed nipples, crush washers for banjo fittings, and new reservoir diaphragms if the originals are degraded. Proper bleeding and fluid replacement restore pedal/lever feel and ensure braking reliability on your 2013 Can-Am Outlander 650.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 650 ATV.
Shop Brake Bleeders for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 650 ATV.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 650 ATV.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 650 ATV.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 650 ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.