What Type of Oil Does a 2016 Can-Am Outlander L570 DPS Take?

Oil Selection for the 2016 Can-Am Outlander L570 DPS

Start With the Engine: A 4-Stroke Single That Wants Powersports Oil

The 2016 Outlander L570 DPS runs a liquid-cooled, single-cylinder four-stroke Rotax engine, so everything here centers on four-stroke engine oil — there is no premix to mix and no injection reservoir to top off. For a machine in this displacement class, the industry-typical recommendation lands in the 10W-40 range, and 5W-40 is a very common alternative. Both are multigrade weights that flow well on a cold morning and hold viscosity once the engine reaches operating temperature, which is exactly what a work-oriented single needs. Can-Am has historically specified its own branded four-stroke oil for the Outlander family, and following that recommendation is a sound default if you want to stay closest to factory intent. What matters more than brand loyalty is that the oil is formulated for a wet-clutch powersports application rather than a passenger car.

Why the CVT and Wet Clutch Shape Your Choice

The L570 DPS uses a belt-driven continuously variable transmission, so the belt itself runs dry and never touches engine oil. That detail sometimes leads owners to assume any automotive oil will do. It won't. Behind the CVT, this machine still uses a wet centrifugal clutch and a geared sub-transmission that share the engine's oil supply, and those components need friction characteristics that a JASO MA or MA2 rated oil provides. Energy-conserving automotive oils contain friction modifiers that can cause clutch slip and grabby engagement over time. A JASO MA/MA2 powersports oil is the right call here, and it is the single most important spec to check on the bottle.

Drivetrain Fluids Are a Separate Job

Engine oil is only part of the picture on a 4x4 utility quad. The Outlander L570 DPS has a front differential and a rear gearcase that each hold their own lubricant, serviced independently of the engine. The rear gearcase typically takes a hypoid gear oil in the 80W-90 range. The front differential on this machine uses a Visco-Lok style engagement system, and it calls for a specific front drive fluid rather than a generic gear oil — using the wrong fluid there can affect how and when four-wheel drive engages. Treat these as three separate fluid systems with three separate service points, and don't assume a single jug covers the whole machine.

Work Duty Is Harder on Oil Than Trail Riding

Plowing, towing, hauling firewood, and creeping through mud at low speed all put more stress on oil than a casual afternoon on groomed trails. Slow-speed heavy loads and long idle periods raise oil temperature and accelerate additive breakdown, while water crossings and deep mud can push moisture past seals. A milky, coffee-colored appearance on the dipstick is the classic sign that water has contaminated the oil, and it means a change is due regardless of mileage. If your Outlander earns its keep rather than just playing on weekends, plan on shorter change intervals than the manual's normal-service figure suggests.

Conventional or Synthetic?

Both work. Conventional four-stroke powersports oil is affordable and perfectly adequate for moderate use in mild conditions. Synthetics cost more but hold up better under sustained heat, resist shear in a hard-working single, and flow more readily on a cold start — advantages that matter if you plow snow at dawn or run long days in summer heat. A semi-synthetic sits in the middle and is a reasonable compromise for most owners. Whichever you pick, keep the JASO MA/MA2 rating and the viscosity grade consistent. There is no need to switch back and forth between brands or formulations at every change, either — pick something that meets the spec and stay with it.

Matching Viscosity to Your Climate

The first number in a multigrade is the cold-weather number, and it is the one to think about if you ride in freezing temperatures. A 0W-40 or 5W-40 flows noticeably easier on a cold morning than a 10W-40, which reduces startup wear. At the other end, 20W-50 is sometimes listed for hot climates or for engines that run hot under load, though it is a poor choice for cold starts. For most owners in temperate conditions, 10W-40 or 5W-40 covers the year comfortably. The exact grade and quantity for your specific machine are worth confirming in the owner's manual — it is a thirty-second check that removes all doubt.

Confirming the Exact Spec

General guidance gets you to the right shelf. The owner's manual gets you to the exact number. Check it for the precise viscosity, the fill quantity, and the drivetrain fluid types for the front differential and rear gearcase, since those vary by model year and trim. A dealer parts counter can confirm the same information if the manual has gone missing. Once you know the spec, buying the right oil becomes a routine errand rather than a research project. Keep a note of it in your phone or on a tag in the shop so the next change goes even faster.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.