How to Change the Oil in a 1987 Kawasaki KLR650 — Complete Guide for MotoSport.com
Shop parts for a 1987 Kawasaki KLR650 Dirt Bike.
Keeping your 1987 Kawasaki KLR650's oil fresh is the cornerstone of reliable engine performance and longevity. This guide will walk you through each step of the oil change process, including the tools required, specific tips for older KLR650s, and precautions unique to this legendary dual-sport bike. Whether you're prepping for a long-distance adventure or routine maintenance, you'll find everything you need below.
Tools and Parts Needed
- 3/8″ ratchet
- 17mm and 8mm sockets (or 18mm and 10mm on some years, check your bolt sizes)
- Socket extension (optional, for reaching the drain bolt easily)
- Torque wrench
- Oil catch pan
- New Oil Filter (aftermarket or OEM for 1987 KLR650)
- Fresh engine oil (10W-40, non-synthetic or synthetic, 2.1 US quarts with filter change)
- Funnel
- Shop rags and paper towels
- New drain bolt crush washer (recommended)
- Screwdriver (for filter cover cap)
- Gloves
Specific Callouts for the 1987 Kawasaki KLR650
- The oil change process for KLR650s manufactured between 1987–2007 is largely the same.
- This generation has a side-mounted sight glass for precise oil level inspection.
- Drain bolt and oil filter location are both easily accessible below the engine and adjacent to the bash plate.
- These engines have a large oil capacity, and the filter cavity takes time to fill on first startup after a change. Double-check your oil level after the first run cycle and top off as needed.
- Pay special attention to the rubber O-ring sealing the oil filter cover. Replace if cracked, flattened, or excessively hard.
- Avoid overtightening the filler cap and drain bolt, as these threads are prone to stripping on older engines.
Step-by-Step Oil Change Instructions for 1987 KLR650
- Warm the Engine: Run the KLR for 2–3 minutes. Warm oil drains faster and more completely, flushing debris from the crankcase.
- Remove the Oil Fill Cap: With engine off, unscrew the filler cap located on the right side of the engine's clutch cover. This helps prevent a vacuum and assists draining.
- Drain Old Oil:
- Place your oil pan beneath the engine's drain bolt (bottom of sump, slightly left of centerline).
- Using your 17mm socket and ratchet, loosen and remove the drain bolt. Be cautious of hot oil and don't lose the crush washer.
- Let the oil fully drain — rock the bike carefully side to side to coax out any remaining oil trapped in the sump.
- Remove and Replace the Oil Filter:
- With the drain pan still in place, locate the oil filter cover on the right side of the engine.
- Remove the three cap screws (use an 8mm or 10mm socket depending on your bike's hardware).
- Gently pry off the cover, being careful not to tear the rubber O-ring. If the cover sticks, wrap your screwdriver tip in a towel to avoid marring the surface.
- Remove the old filter and the small metal spacer behind it. Clean the cavity, inspecting for sludge or debris.
- Install the metal spacer first if removed, then the new filter (beveled edge facing inward as per filter instructions).
- Lightly coat the O-ring and filter with fresh oil, reinstall the cover with the arrow facing up and the alignment tab on the lower right.
- Hand-tighten the screws, then snug to spec with the torque wrench, alternating screws for even compression.
- Reinstall the Drain Plug:
- Replace or inspect the drain bolt crush washer.
- Reinstall the drain bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading; torque to spec.
- Add Fresh Oil:
- Using a funnel, pour in approximately 2.1 US quarts (with filter) of 10W-40 engine oil. Stop a little short of the max line.
- Replace the filler cap, hand-tightening only.
- Prime and Check Oil Level:
- Start the engine and idle for 10–15 seconds. Shut off and let sit for 2–3 minutes so oil settles in the sight glass.
- With the bike held upright and level, check oil level via the sight glass (right engine case). Add small amounts of oil as needed (do not overfill), aiming for just below the top line.
- Repeat the process: run the bike briefly, re-check, and adjust.
- Inspect for Leaks & Final Checks:
- Examine both the drain bolt and filter cover for any seepage.
- Clean any spilled oil from the engine and exhaust before riding.
Oil Change Frequency for the 1987 KLR650
- Kawasaki recommends changing oil and filter every 7,500 miles, but most experts and owners perform changes every 3,000–5,000 miles, especially if used for off-road riding or extended highway touring. Dirty oil can lead to shifting problems and increased engine wear.
Tips and Warnings
- Use high-quality motorcycle-specific 10W-40 oil; avoid automotive oils with friction modifiers.
- Run the engine after every oil and filter replacement, as oil takes time to saturate the filter and appear in the inspection window. Add oil in small increments to prevent overfilling.
- Dispose of old oil and filter responsibly at your local recycling center.
Changing the oil on your 1987 Kawasaki KLR650 is an easy, essential job that will keep your dual-sport running strong for years. Each extra minute spent on careful inspection and proper fill level will pay off in fewer breakdowns and better performance.
For more factory and hands-on tips for your Kawasaki, check back at MotoSport.com for expert guides on every dirt bike make and model.
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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.