How to Change Brake Pads on a 2013 Yamaha YZ85
Shop parts for a 2013 Yamaha YZ85 Dirt Bike.Brake system overview
The 2013 Yamaha YZ85 uses a hydraulic disc brake system common to modern motocross and youth dirt bikes. Key components you'll see and work with are the brake lever or pedal, master cylinder, hydraulic line, brake caliper, brake pads, and the steel brake rotor. When you pull the lever or press the pedal, hydraulic pressure pushes the caliper pistons so the pads clamp the rotor and slow the bike.
When to replace brake pads & why it matters
- Reduced braking power during normal stops or longer lever/pedal travel.
- Squealing, grinding, or metallic noises from the caliper area.
- Visible pad material worn thin – backing plate showing or less than a few millimeters of friction material.
- Excessive lever or pedal travel that doesn't recover after adjustment.
- Heat discoloration or scoring on the rotor that indicates heavy wear.
Maintaining good pads on your 2013 Yamaha YZ85 is crucial for rider control and safety, particularly on a lightweight, high-revving youth motocross bike where stopping distance and modulation matter during technical sections and jumps.
Tools & workspace
- Basic metric socket set and wrenches
- Flat and Phillips screwdrivers
- Pliers for cotter pins or retaining clips
- Bench or rear stand to support the YZ85
- Shop rag, small brush, and isopropyl alcohol
- New brake pads sized for a 2013 Yamaha YZ85
- Optional rubber mallet or soft-faced hammer
Step-by-step – changing the pads
These steps assume basic mechanical knowledge and a garage-level setup. Slight variations exist depending on caliper style; adapt as needed.
- Prepare the bike and workspace. Place the YZ85 on a rear stand so the rear wheel can turn freely if you're working the rear brake, or a front stand for the front brake. Clean the area around the caliper to avoid pushing dirt into the brake while you work.
- Decide if wheel removal is needed. On many YZ85 setups the caliper can be serviced with the wheel in place. If access is tight or you prefer more room, remove the wheel first by loosening axle hardware and sliding the axle out while supporting the wheel.
- Remove the pad retaining hardware. Most dirt bike calipers use a retaining pin or clip. Use pliers or a screwdriver to extract the clip and carefully slide the retaining pin out. Keep track of any small springs or shims as you remove them.
- Slide the old pads out. Pull the pads straight out of the caliper body. If they're stuck, gently tap the back of the caliper housing or use a flat screwdriver to leverage the pads free. Note the orientation of the old pads and any shims so you can match it with the new set.
- Inspect caliper and rotor. Look for embedded rocks, scoring, or heat spots on the rotor. Check the caliper bore area for fluid residue or heavy corrosion. Remove dirt with a brush and clean rotor contact surfaces with isopropyl alcohol. Do not contaminate pads with grease or oil.
- Compress the caliper piston(s). Use a clean, flat tool or a piston compressor to push pistons back into the caliper slowly until they sit flush. If you've removed the wheel, place one old pad against the piston to spread the force evenly while compressing. This makes room for the new, thicker pads.
- Install new pads. Slide the new friction pieces into the caliper in the same orientation as the originals, including any backing plates or wear indicators. Reinstall any springs or shims that came with the pad kit.
- Reinstall retaining pin & clip. Insert the retaining pin fully and lock it with the clip or cotter pin. Ensure the pin is seated and that the pads are held firmly but free to retract slightly when released.
- Reinstall wheel if removed. Position the wheel, slide the axle through, and torque axle hardware to the proper tightness. Check axle alignment, spacers, and brake rotor position as you refit the wheel.
- Restore hydraulic pressure. Pump the brake lever or pedal several times until you feel firm resistance and the pads contact the rotor. Check travel – the lever should feel solid within normal travel. If the lever is spongy, pump until firmness returns; avoid riding with poor lever feel.
Helpful inspection tips while you're in there
- Check rotor thickness and surface for deep grooves or heat bands; replace rotor only if thickness is below usable limits or surface is heavily damaged.
- Look for brake fluid leaks at the caliper seals or brake line fittings – signs of leaks mean a separate seal or hose repair is needed.
- Ensure the caliper slides freely on its mounting points; seized slides can cause uneven pad wear.
- Clean mud, clay, and grit from the caliper bracket and pad channels – debris speeds pad and rotor wear.
- Confirm the retaining pin and clip are fully seated and not bent or corroded.
Bedding-in new pads
Bedding new pads helps them mate to the rotor surface for consistent stopping power. From low speed, perform 8–12 progressive controlled stops from about walking to moderate crawl speed, avoiding hard locks. Allow the brakes to cool between sets if they get hot. These gentle stops transfer a thin, even layer of friction material to the rotor and improve modulation on your 2013 Yamaha YZ85.
Final checks before riding
- Confirm lever/pedal firmness and free play are within a comfortable range for you.
- Check for unusual noises or dragging while spinning the wheel by hand.
- Recheck axle hardware and caliper fasteners after the first short ride.
With regular inspections and the right pads installed, your 2013 Yamaha YZ85 will keep predictable braking performance for trail runs or motocross sessions. Routine pad checks after muddy rides or long track days prevent surprises and maintain confidence on the bike.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Pads for a 2013 Yamaha YZ85 Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Rotors for a 2013 Yamaha YZ85 Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2013 Yamaha YZ85 Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Bleeders for a 2013 Yamaha YZ85 Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2013 Yamaha YZ85 Dirt Bike.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
