How to Bleed and Replace Brake Fluid on a 2014 Yamaha Grizzly 350 4X4
Shop parts for a 2014 Yamaha Grizzly 350 4X4 ATV.
This MotoSport guide walks you through draining, flushing and bleeding the brake system on a 2014 Yamaha Grizzly 350 4X4. Procedures are written for the stock hydraulic front hand brake and the separate rear foot brake master cylinder. The Grizzly 350 uses DOT 4 brake fluid; use fresh DOT 4 fluid and keep dirt & moisture out of the reservoir at all times.
What you need
- DOT 4 brake fluid (new, unopened)
- Clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over bleed nipples
- Catch bottle partially filled with old fluid & water-free reservoir cap
- 9mm or 8mm wrench for bleed nipples (verify size on your calipers)
- Phillips or flat driver for reservoir cap clips
- Turkey baster or fluid syringe (for removing old fluid from reservoirs)
- Brake bleeder pump or vacuum pump (optional but speeds job)
- Clean rags, gloves, eye protection
- Torque wrench for reassembly (if you remove banjo bolts)
Safety and prep
- Work on a level surface. Secure ATV on stands so wheels are off the ground and cannot roll.
- Protect painted surfaces from fluid spills with rags; DOT fluid damages paint.
- Always use fresh DOT 4 fluid. Never mix with DOT 5 silicone fluid.
- If the system is extremely contaminated or dark, a full reservoir-to-caliper flush is recommended.
Quick model notes for the 2014 Grizzly 350
- Front brakes: twin calipers (left & right) controlled by the handlebar master cylinder.
- Rear brake: single caliper controlled by a separate foot master cylinder mounted on the frame.
- No factory ABS on this model; both systems are independent and must be bled separately.
- Banjo bolts and crush washers are used on line fittings. Inspect and replace crush washers if disturbed.
Step 1 — Initial reservoir maintenance
- Clean around both reservoirs before opening to avoid contamination.
- Remove reservoir caps and diaphragms. Use a syringe or turkey baster to remove as much old fluid as possible from the reservoirs.
- Top the reservoir with a small amount of new DOT 4; do not overfill. Replace cap loosely to limit contamination while you work.
Step 2 — Decide bleeding method
Choose one: manual pump-bleed (helper squeezes pump), one-person syringe/vacuum method, or a pressure bleeder. Any method is fine if you prevent air entry and keep the reservoir topped up.
Step 3 — Bleed order
Always start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and work toward the closest.
- Front master cylinder (handlebar): bleed the front wheel that is farthest from the handlebar master cylinder first. Typically start with the right front, then left front, then finish at the master cylinder.
- Rear master cylinder (foot): bleed the rear caliper following the same farthest-to-closest rule; with a single rear caliper this is straightforward.
Step 4 — Bleeding procedure (per caliper)
- Fit clear tubing over the bleed nipple and submerge the other end in a small catch bottle partially filled with fresh brake fluid to prevent air from being drawn back up.
- Loosen the bleed nipple about a quarter to half turn. Do not remove the nipple.
- If using a helper: have them slowly apply steady pressure to the lever or pedal while you open the nipple briefly to allow fluid/air out, then close before they release pressure. Repeat until clean, bubble-free fluid appears.
- If using a vacuum or syringe: attach vacuum to the nipple, pump until fluid runs clear and bubble-free, keeping the reservoir level topped with fresh fluid.
- Close the bleed nipple securely, wipe clean, and move to the next caliper.
Step 5 — Finishing the reservoir
- When all calipers are bled, fill each reservoir to the proper level and reinstall diaphragms & caps.
- Pump the brake lever/pedal multiple times until the lever feels firm. If it still feels spongy, re-bleed the system focusing on any sections where air may remain.
- Check for leaks at bleed nipples, banjo bolts and hose fittings while applying pressure.
Full flush recommendation
If fluid was very dark or contaminated, perform a full flush: remove old fluid from the reservoirs, fill with new fluid, then bleed each caliper until fluid from each outlet runs bright. Repeat reservoir replacement and bleeding until fluid remains clear.
Tips, torque & inspection
- Replace crush washers on banjo bolts whenever you loosen the fittings. Torque banjo bolts to Yamaha spec if you remove them (consult your service manual for exact values).
- Inspect hoses for swelling, cracking or soft spots; replace if suspect. Replace corroded bleed nipples.
- Dispose of used brake fluid responsibly; it is corrosive and toxic.
- After bleeding, road-test at low speed to confirm firm brake feel before riding hard.
Troubleshooting
- Persistent spongy lever: likely air remains. Re-bleed, keeping reservoir topped and following farthest-to-closest order.
- No pressure at all: check for leaks, empty reservoir, or seized master cylinder. Inspect pedal/lever linkages.
- Brake drag after bleeding: ensure caliper pistons and pads move freely; check hose collapse or overtightened bleed nipple.
Perform regular brake fluid changes every two years or sooner if you ride in wet/muddy conditions. Proper bleeding and fresh DOT 4 fluid will keep your 2014 Yamaha Grizzly 350 4X4 stopping reliably.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2014 Yamaha Grizzly 350 4X4 ATV.
Shop Brake Bleeders for a 2014 Yamaha Grizzly 350 4X4 ATV.
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Shop Brake Lines for a 2014 Yamaha Grizzly 350 4X4 ATV.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2014 Yamaha Grizzly 350 4X4 ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
