How to Bleed and Replace Brake Fluid on a 2011 Yamaha Grizzly 350 4X4

Shop parts for a 2011 Yamaha Grizzly 350 4X4 ATV.

This MotoSport-exclusive guide walks you through a safe, effective brake fluid replacement and bleed for the 2011 Yamaha Grizzly 350 4X4 (MMY). Follow each step carefully, observe standard shop safety, and use quality parts and fresh DOT 4 brake fluid. This procedure is tuned to the Grizzly 350's brake plumbing and caliper layout so you get consistent pedal feel and reliable stopping power.

What you need

  • DOT 4 brake fluid (new, unopened)
  • Clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over brake bleed nipples
  • Catch bottle or jar and disposable rags
  • Brake cleaner
  • Socket set, open wrenches, and box-end wrench for bleed nipples
  • Phillips screwdriver or small flat for reservoir cap clips
  • Brake bleeder wrench or 8 mm open wrench (verify size on your bike)
  • Assistant (recommended) or one-way bleeder tool / vacuum pump
  • Gloves & eye protection

Model notes for the 2011 Yamaha Grizzly 350 4X4 (MMY)

  • The Grizzly 350 uses hydraulic disc brakes front and rear with a single master cylinder feeding both circuits. Bleeding order and keeping the reservoir topped during the job is critical to avoid introducing air into the system.
  • Use DOT 4 fluid only. Do not mix DOT 3 and DOT 5 or silicone fluids. The OEM system is not compatible with DOT 5.
  • Brake components are exposed to mud, water & trail abuse. Inspect caliper boots, lines, banjo bolts, and fittings for corrosion or damage while you have the system open.
  • Some Grizzly 350s have a combined front brake lever and rear foot brake proportioning system or linked braking components – be sure you identify which bleed nipples correspond to each caliper before starting.

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and block wheels. Work with the engine off and key removed.
  2. Clean the master cylinder reservoir area thoroughly with brake cleaner to avoid contamination when opening the cap.
  3. Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm carefully. Note fluid level and condition. Old fluid will be dark.
  4. Place a rag under calipers and protect painted surfaces from spilled fluid. Brake fluid will damage paint and plastics.

Bleeding strategy

Standard sequence: start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and finish at the closest. For the Grizzly 350 this commonly means: rear caliper(s) first, then front caliper(s). If you have multiple front calipers, bleed the one farthest from the master cylinder first. Keep reservoir level topped with fresh DOT 4 fluid throughout the procedure.

Step-by-step fluid replacement & bleed

  1. Attach clear tubing to the bleed nipple of the first caliper and run the other end into the catch bottle partially filled with fresh fluid to prevent air re-entry.
  2. Have your assistant slowly depress the brake lever or pedal several times and hold it compressed. Open the bleed nipple slightly to allow fluid and air to flow into the tubing. Close the nipple before your helper releases the lever. Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid runs and the master cylinder level remains stable. Keep topping the reservoir with fresh DOT 4 fluid.
  3. Work through each caliper in order from farthest to nearest, repeating the pump-hold-open-close cycle. For front dual calipers, bleed the outside or farthest one first, then the nearer caliper.
  4. If you're working alone, use a one-way bleeder tool or vacuum bleeder on each bleed nipple to draw fluid while you manipulate the lever or pedal to seat pads and expel air. Ensure no vacuum tool pulls air from the reservoir.
  5. When bleeding is complete at each caliper, tighten bleed nipple to manufacturer-tight (snug, then small fraction of a turn with a torque wrench if you know the spec), wipe fittings clean, and re-check for leaks with firm brake application.
  6. After all calipers are bled, cycle the brake lever/pedal multiple times to confirm firm, consistent feel. Top the reservoir to the proper mark with fresh DOT 4 and reinstall the cap and diaphragm securely.
  7. Clean any spilled fluid, reinstall wheels if removed, and perform a slow road/test ride in a safe area to verify braking performance. Re-check fluid level after initial test rides and inspect for leaks.

Tips & cautions

  • Do not let the reservoir run dry at any time during bleeding &ndash you will reintroduce air and have to restart.
  • Replace the rubber diaphragm in the reservoir if hardened or damaged. Use new crush washers on banjo bolts when removing any brake lines.
  • Dispose of used brake fluid and contaminated rags responsibly &mdash brake fluid is hazardous waste.
  • If brake feel remains spongy after thorough bleeding, inspect caliper pistons, master cylinder, and brake lines for internal leaks or contamination &mdash rebuild or replace components as needed.
  • After off-road use, recheck bleed nipples and banjo bolts for proper torque and for any ingress of dirt that may compromise seals.

Final checks

  • Confirm caps & diaphragms are seated, no leaks at bleed nipples or banjo fittings, and brake lever/pedal is firm and consistent.
  • Road-test gradually at low speed to verify full braking capability before returning to normal riding.

Perform regular brake fluid changes every 1-2 years if you ride frequently or in wet conditions, and inspect the system after heavy water crossings &ndash proactive maintenance keeps your Grizzly 350 stopping reliably season after season.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.