How to Bleed & Replace Brake Fluid on a 2011 Honda TRX500 Rubicon 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM6)
Shop parts for a 2011 Honda TRX500 Rubicon 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM6) ATV.
This proprietary MotoSport guide walks you through safely flushing and bleeding the brake system on the 2011 Honda TRX500 Rubicon 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM6). Follow each step carefully, use proper PPE, and dispose of old fluid responsibly.
What you need
- DOT-spec brake fluid per Honda recommendation (use DOT 3 or DOT 4 as specified by your manual) — do not mix different fluid types
- Clear vinyl bleed tubing and a catch bottle (small volume bottles work best)
- Box wrench or flare-wrench sized to the bleed nipples (usually 8mm or 10mm)
- Turkey-baster or fluid transfer pump to extract reservoir fluid
- Rubber gloves, eye protection, rags
- Small screwdriver to open reservoir cap clamp, if equipped
- Optional: one-person pressure bleeder or hand vacuum pump for faster, cleaner bleeding
Model-specific notes for the 2011 TRX500 Rubicon FM6
- The brake master cylinder reservoir sits near the front handlebar area; the cap has a rubber diaphragm and a small vent — keep the cap off only as long as necessary and never let the reservoir run dry.
- This model features hydraulic brakes (front and rear) separate from the power steering system; never add brake fluid to the power steering reservoir or vice versa.
- Brake caliper bleed nipples are accessible but can be tight from trail use — clean joints before opening to avoid contamination.
- If your ATV has been used in deep water or heavily off-road, expect discolored fluid and consider a full system flush rather than a quick bleed.
Preparation
- Park the ATV on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and remove the key.
- Clean the reservoir cap area and wipe down around each bleed nipple to prevent dirt entry.
- Loosen wheel lug bolts slightly if you plan to remove wheels for better caliper access, then securely support the ATV on jack stands or ramps.
- Place rags under calipers to catch drips and protect paint/surfaces from corrosive fluid.
Step-by-step: Replace fluid & bleed the system
- Open the master cylinder reservoir. Use a turkey-baster or transfer pump to remove as much old fluid as possible from the reservoir without introducing air.
- Top the reservoir with fresh DOT-specified fluid. Keep the cap loosely in place to reduce contamination while you work.
- Identify bleed order: start with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder and finish with the closest. Common ATV order: rear caliper (if rear is furthest), then right front, then left front. If unsure, visually trace the brake lines from the master cylinder to determine the farthest caliper.
- Attach clear vinyl tubing to the first bleed nipple and submerge the other end in a catch bottle partially filled with fresh fluid to prevent air re-entry.
- Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal several times and hold it down. With pedal held, open the bleed nipple about half a turn to let fluid and air escape. Close the nipple before the assistant releases the pedal. Repeat until the expelled fluid is clear and free of bubbles, topping the reservoir frequently to prevent it from running dry.
- Move to the next caliper in the bleed sequence. Repeat the same pump/open/close cycles until each caliper runs clear fluid with no air bubbles. Maintain reservoir level the entire time.
- For a single-person method, use a vacuum pump on the bleed nipple or a pressure bleeder on the reservoir. Follow the tool manufacturer instructions while still keeping the reservoir filled.
- Once all calipers are clear, tighten each bleed nipple to the proper snugness (feel tight — do not over-torque). Clean any spilled fluid and recheck reservoir level, topping to the full mark.
- Reinstall the reservoir cap securely, remove stands, remount wheels if removed, torque wheel bolts to spec, and lower the ATV to the ground.
- Test brake feel at low speed in a safe area. If the pedal feels spongy, repeat bleeding until firm. A properly bled system should provide a firm, consistent lever/pedal feel.
Bleeding tips & troubleshooting
- Never let the master cylinder reservoir run dry during bleeding — introducing air there makes the job longer.
- If bubbles persist, check for leaks in flex hoses, leaking caliper pistons, or a cracked line near fittings.
- Stubborn air can hide in ABS modulator assemblies (if present). This model typically does not have ABS; if your unit does, consult a dealer or use a scan tool/service tool procedure.
- Use fresh, unopened brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic — once opened it absorbs moisture and should be used quickly.
Final checks & maintenance
- Wipe all components clean of spilled fluid — brake fluid can damage plastic and painted surfaces.
- Dispose of old fluid per local regulations.
- Inspect brake lines, pads, rotors, and caliper hardware while you have the wheels off. Replace worn pads or corroded hardware.
- Record the service date and brake fluid type used for future maintenance intervals.
Following this MotoSport-specific procedure will restore brake system integrity on your 2011 Honda TRX500 Rubicon FM6. If you encounter persistent problems or suspect internal caliper damage, consult a professional mechanic.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2011 Honda TRX500 Rubicon 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM6) ATV.
Shop Brake Bleeders for a 2011 Honda TRX500 Rubicon 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM6) ATV.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2011 Honda TRX500 Rubicon 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM6) ATV.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2011 Honda TRX500 Rubicon 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM6) ATV.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2011 Honda TRX500 Rubicon 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM6) ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.