How to bleed and replace brake fluid on a 2009 Can-Am Outlander 800R
Shop parts for a 2009 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.
This MotoSport guide walks you through a complete brake fluid change and bleed on a 2009 Can-Am Outlander 800R. The 800R uses separate front and rear master cylinders (front lever on the handlebar, rear pedal on the frame) feeding three calipers (two front, one rear). Use DOT 4 brake fluid only, and keep everything clean & dry.
Safety & preparation
- Work on a level surface with the engine off, key removed, and parking brake applied (if fitted).
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Brake fluid damages paint & plastics — protect bodywork and clean spills immediately.
- Elevate the ATV on jack stands or a stable lift so wheels turn freely. Block the machine to prevent tipping.
- Gather tools: clear plastic tubing, catch bottle, bleeder wrench or correct-size box wrench for bleed nipples, DOT 4 brake fluid, turkey baster or brake-fluid syringe, clean rags, small funnel, and optionally a vacuum or pressure bleeder.
Model-specific notes for the 2009 Outlander 800R
- Three-caliper system: two front calipers and one rear. Master reservoirs are separate for front & rear brakes; check reservoir level for both before starting.
- Bleed nipples are on each caliper; they can be tight from age. Apply penetrating lube if seized, but protect nearby surfaces.
- The rear master cylinder is pedal actuated and located on the frame near the right footrest. The front master cylinder is on the right handlebar.
- No factory ABS on standard 2009 Outlander 800R models — no ABS purge steps required.
- Recommended service interval: replace brake fluid every 1-2 years or sooner if contaminated or discolored.
Step-by-step: drain, replace fluid, and bleed
- Inspect reservoirs: remove caps and diaphragms. Siphon out old fluid from both reservoirs with a turkey baster until mostly empty, leaving a small amount to prevent air from flowing back. Wipe the cap area clean before replacing cap loosely.
- Top reservoirs with fresh DOT 4 fluid to the maximum mark. Keep caps loosely in place so the system can vent but dust cannot get in.
- Determine bleed order: always bleed the caliper farthest from its respective master cylinder first, then proceed to the next farthest, finishing with the nearest. For the Outlander 800R this commonly means: rear caliper (from rear master), then right front, then left front (from front master), but confirm distance visually because frame layout can vary by accessories. Do brakes one circuit at a time (front circuit separately from rear circuit) so each master reservoir only feeds its calipers.
- Attach clear tubing to the bleed nipple and insert the other end into a catch bottle partially filled with clean fluid to prevent air being drawn back in. Keep the tubing secure.
- Bleeding with a helper (manual): Helper pumps the lever or pedal slowly to build pressure, holds it, you open the bleed nipple briefly to let fluid & air out, then close the nipple before the helper releases the lever/pedal. Repeat until only clean, bubble-free fluid appears. Keep reservoir level topped off between cycles to avoid introducing air.
- Vacuum or pressure bleeder method (recommended if available): Connect to each reservoir or use a vacuum on the caliper bleed nipple. Follow the tool instructions. Vacuum/pressure reduces mess and makes it easy to see clear fluid flow without a helper.
- Work methodically per caliper: crack the bleed nipple 1/4 turn to open, pump (or use tool) until fluid runs clear, then tighten the nipple while pressure is applied (helper still holding) or immediately upon stopping tool flow. Torque to snug; avoid over tightening. After finishing each caliper, check for leaks.
- Repeat for each caliper in the correct order until all circuits deliver firm pedal/lever feel and no air bubbles are visible in the tubing. Ensure reservoir levels are maintained throughout.
- When finished, top reservoirs to the proper level, reinstall diaphragms & caps, and clean all spilled fluid. Test brake lever & pedal firmness with the machine stationary — if soft or spongy, repeat bleeding.
- Road test cautiously: ride at low speed in a safe area and confirm strong, consistent braking. Re-check fluid level and bleed nipple tightness after the first short ride.
Tips & troubleshooting
- Never reuse old fluid or mix DOT types. Always use fresh DOT 4 only.
- If a brake stays soft after thorough bleeding, inspect for worn caliper seals, a leaking master cylinder, or collapsed brake lines. Air often re-enters through a faulty seal or leaking connection.
- If a bleed nipple is rounded, use a box-end wrench for better grip or replace the nipple before proceeding.
- Keep the reservoir cap area extremely clean when open to avoid contamination. Replace reservoir diaphragm if brittle or damaged.
- Dispose of used brake fluid responsibly; it is hazardous waste.
Parts & consumables to have on hand
- DOT 4 brake fluid (enough to refill both circuits plus bleeding losses)
- Replacement bleed nipples or caps if corroded
- New reservoir diaphragms or caps if damaged
- Clear tubing, catch bottle, and rags
Follow these steps and model-specific notes to perform a safe, complete brake fluid change and bleed on your 2009 Can-Am Outlander 800R. If you encounter persistent problems, consult a qualified technician and reference your factory service manual for torque specs and drawings unique to your machine.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2009 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.
Shop Brake Bleeders for a 2009 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2009 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2009 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2009 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.