How to Bleed and Replace Brake Fluid on a 2000 Yamaha Wolverine 350

Shop parts for a 2000 YAMAHA WOLV350 ATV.

This MotoSport guide walks you through safely flushing and replacing the brake fluid on a 2000 Yamaha Wolverine 350. Procedures here are written for typical hydraulic ATV brake systems and adapted for the Wolverine's layout. Read each step before you begin and work cleanly to avoid contaminating brake components.

What you need

  • DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid – use what the owner–s manual specifies; do not use DOT 5 (silicone)
  • Clear tubing that fits the bleed nipples
  • Brake bleeder bottle or small catch container
  • Wrench to fit bleed nipples (open-end or box wrench)
  • Turkey baster or fluid syringe for emptying reservoirs
  • Rubber gloves, safety glasses, shop rags
  • Jack or ramps if you need wheels off the ground for access
  • Optional: vacuum or pressure bleeder for faster, cleaner bleeding

Owner notes specific to the 2000 Wolverine 350

  • Confirm reservoir locations before starting: the front/master lever reservoir is at the handlebar master cylinder. The rear brake reservoir may be located near the rear brake pedal or under the seat depending on model/configuration — verify on your bike so you don’t empty the wrong tank.
  • Some WOLV350 machines use a combination of front disc(s) and a rear brake assembly; always identify the bleed nipples on each caliper or rear brake assembly before starting.
  • Check lines for age-related cracking or rubbing points — 2000 models can show chafe or hardening. Replace any suspect hose rather than just bleeding.
  • Inspect banjo bolts and copper crush washers at calipers; replace washers whenever you disturb a banjo connection to avoid leaks.
  • Brake pad wear is common on older ATVs. If fluid is contaminated with pad material or metallic bits, inspect and service calipers and pads before refilling.

Safety first

  • Work on a level surface with the engine off and key removed.
  • Avoid getting brake fluid on painted surfaces — it will damage paint. Clean spills immediately with water and a rag.
  • Keep the reservoir cap and diaphragm clean and do not allow dirt into the system.
  • Dispose of old fluid responsibly; do not pour it down drains.

Step-by-step brake fluid change & bleed

1. Prep the bike

  • Park level and secure. Remove any plastics that restrict access to reservoirs or calipers.
  • Clean the master cylinder reservoir cover area to prevent contamination when you open it.
  • Loosen but do not remove bleed nipples on calipers so you know they’re free.

2. Drain old fluid from reservoirs

  • Use a turkey baster or syringe to remove as much old fluid from each reservoir as possible. Dispose of it into an appropriate container.
  • Refill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid to the recommended level. Keep cap loosely in place to reduce contamination while working.

3. Choose a bleeding method

  • Manual two-person method: one person pumps/brake lever while the other opens/closes bleed nipples.
  • Vacuum or pressure bleeder: single-person, faster, and reduces air ingress. If using pressure bleeder, set to low pressure and follow manufacturer instructions.

4. Bleed sequence

Standard practice is to start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and finish with the closest. For many ATV layouts that means:

  • Front right (if applicable)
  • Front left
  • Rear

Verify actual line routing on your Wolverine — if the master cylinder feeds a particular caliper first, do that last.

5. Manual bleed procedure

  1. Fit clear tubing over the bleed nipple and submerge the other end in a small bottle partially filled with fresh fluid to prevent air re-entry.
  2. With the reservoir topped up, have an assistant slowly squeeze the brake lever or pedal until firm, then hold pressure.
  3. Open the bleed nipple about a quarter to half turn to allow fluid/air to escape. Close the nipple before the assistant releases the lever/pedal. Repeat until only clear fluid (no bubbles) comes out.
  4. Keep reservoir level from falling below the minimum while you bleed; top up as needed to prevent drawing air into the master cylinder.
  5. Repeat for each caliper in the correct sequence.

6. Using a vacuum or pressure bleeder

  • Attach the bleeder per the tool instructions. If vacuum bleeding, attach tubing to the bleed nipple and draw while you cycle the lever/pedal. If pressure bleeding, pressurize the reservoir with the device and open bleed nipples one at a time until clear fluid flows.
  • As always, maintain reservoir level and finish with the caliper closest to the master cylinder.

7. Final checks

  • When bleeding is complete, tighten bleed nipples to snug (do not over-torque) and wipe away fluid. Replace any crush washers if disturbed.
  • Top the reservoir to the correct level and reinstall the cap and diaphragm. Clean any spilled fluid.
  • Test lever/pedal feel — it should be firm with no sponginess. If soft, re-bleed until firm.
  • Carefully test brakes at low speed in a safe area before returning to regular use.

Maintenance tips & common issues for older WOLV350s

  • Brake fluid should be replaced every 1-2 years or sooner if it looks dark or contaminated. Moisture absorption lowers boiling point and accelerates corrosion.
  • Inspect caliper slides/pistons for corrosion and free movement. Sticking pistons cause uneven pad wear and poor braking.
  • Check master cylinder boot and diaphragm for cracks; replace if hardened or damaged to avoid contamination.
  • If you find persistent air or a leak that won’t clear, pressure-test the system and inspect hoses, fittings, and master cylinder for internal failure.
  • When replacing flexible hoses or banjo bolts, use new crush washers and tighten to proper snugness; leaking banjo fittings are a common cause of fluid loss on older machines.

Troubleshooting quick reference

  • Spongy lever after bleeding: likely air still in system — re-bleed, paying attention to reservoir level and sequence.
  • Brake lever slowly sinks under pressure: possible internal master cylinder seal leak; inspect/replace master cylinder.
  • Fluids dark or contaminated: perform a full flush and inspect calipers/pads for contamination; service or replace components as needed.

Follow these steps and periodic inspections to keep braking performance reliable on your 2000 Yamaha Wolverine 350. If you encounter damaged components, source replacements and service parts through MotoSport to keep your ATV safe and running at its best.

Related Shopping Categories

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Shop Brake Tools for a 2000 YAMAHA WOLV350 ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.