Bleeding the Brakes on a 2015 Honda NC700X DCT ABS

Shop parts for a 2015 Honda NC700X DCT ABS Motorcycle.

The 2015 Honda NC700X DCT ABS is a practical crossover with an automatic dual-clutch transmission, a single front disc, a rear disc, and Honda’s Combined ABS. The front caliper is fed by a master cylinder and reservoir on the right handlebar. Because the DCT model has no clutch lever, the rear brake is worked by the foot pedal through its own master cylinder and reservoir. With combined braking, the rear pedal also applies part of the front braking, so the hydraulic layout has more parts than a conventional bike.

Why Bleed the Brakes?

Brake fluid absorbs moisture as it ages. That lowers its boiling point and leads to corrosion inside calipers, master cylinders, and ABS components. On a commuter that sees lots of stop-and-go traffic, old fluid can leave you with a soft lever and less consistent braking.

  • A spongy lever or soft pedal
  • Fluid that has darkened in the reservoirs
  • High mileage since the last fluid change
  • Recent brake work

Supplies Checklist

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valves
  • Clear tubing that seals snugly on the bleeder
  • A catch bottle
  • A syringe or turkey baster
  • A screwdriver or driver for the reservoir caps
  • Rags and water

Before You Start

Put the bike on its center stand if equipped, or a secure stand, so it sits upright. Turn the handlebars to level the front reservoir. Some bodywork may need to come off to reach the rear reservoir. Cover painted and plastic parts with rags, because brake fluid damages them quickly.

Working With Combined ABS

With the combined system, there may be more bleed points and a specific bleed sequence, including a front caliper bleeder for the circuit fed by the rear pedal. Locate every bleeder before you begin. Refreshing the fluid through the caliper bleeders is routine, but a complete bleed of the combined system may require a dealer-level procedure.

Bleeding Steps

  1. Remove the front reservoir cap and diaphragm.
  2. Pull out most of the old fluid with the syringe without letting the reservoir run dry.
  3. Refill with fresh fluid.
  4. Slip the clear tube over the front caliper bleeder for the lever circuit and place the free end in the catch bottle.
  5. Squeeze and hold the lever.
  6. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn.
  7. Close the bleeder before releasing the lever.
  8. Repeat, topping off every few strokes, until clean, bubble-free fluid flows.
  9. Repeat the process on the circuit fed by the foot pedal, bleeding each bleeder on that circuit with the pedal and keeping the rear reservoir full.

Protect the ABS Unit

Never let either reservoir run low. Air drawn into a master cylinder can work its way into the ABS and combined-brake components, where a standard caliper bleed may not remove it.

Finish the Job Right

Tighten the bleeders snugly, fill both reservoirs to their correct level marks, and reinstall the diaphragms and caps. Wipe away all spilled fluid, check for leaks, and dispose of the old fluid properly. The lever and pedal should be firm and should not sink. Spin both wheels to check for drag, confirm the ABS light behaves normally, and test at low speed in a safe area.

When to Call a Dealer

If a reservoir ran dry, any ABS or combined-brake component was disconnected, or the brakes never firm up, the system may require a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool. A warning light that stays on is another reason to have it checked.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.