Bleeding the Brakes on a 2013 Honda CB500X
Shop parts for a 2013 Honda CB500X Motorcycle.
Know Your CB500X Brake Layout Before You Start
The 2013 CB500X is a hydraulic disc brake motorcycle at both ends. The front brake is operated by the lever on the right handlebar and the rear by the pedal on the right side of the bike, and each works its own independent circuit with its own master cylinder and reservoir. Honda did not fit the CB500X with a linked or combined system, so bleeding the front has no effect on the rear and vice versa — you will do the job twice, once per circuit.
One detail worth confirming on your own machine: 2013 CB500X models were sold both with and without ABS. Look for a toothed ring and a small sensor at the front and rear wheels, or check whether the instrument panel shows an ABS indicator when you turn the key. If your bike has ABS, a normal bleed at the caliper bleeders is still the right way to refresh fluid, but there is an important exception covered further down. If it does not, the job is a straightforward manual bleed.
When the Brakes Actually Need Bleeding
Air and moisture are the two things that degrade a hydraulic brake system, and both show up as feel at the controls. A lever that feels spongy or that pulls noticeably closer to the grip than it used to is the classic sign of air in the line. A pedal with a soft, vague first part of its travel tells the same story at the rear. Dark, cloudy, or discolored fluid in either reservoir is a sign that the fluid is past its useful life.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air over time. That absorbed water lowers the fluid's boiling point, and under hard or repeated braking the fluid can boil and create gas in the system — the lever goes long and the brakes fade exactly when you need them most. Because of that, many riders flush the fluid on a regular interval even when nothing feels wrong. Bleeding is also required any time the system has been opened: new brake lines, a caliper rebuild, master cylinder work, or a reservoir that ran dry.
Tools and Supplies to Collect First
- Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on your master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container. Do not substitute a different type.
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly — a box-end grips the flats far better than an open-end and is much less likely to round the bleeder.
- A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple, plus a catch bottle to hang it in.
- Rags or shop towels, and a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir.
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws.
- Optional but helpful for solo work: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder.
Setting Up So Nothing Gets Damaged
Get the bike held securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working the lever. For the front circuit, turn the handlebars until the reservoir on the master cylinder sits level — if it is tilted, fluid will spill the moment you remove the cap. Lay rags over the tank or bodywork, the plastics, and the instrument area before you open anything.
Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact, so treat every drip as urgent. Wipe spills immediately and rinse the area with water. Keep the cap on the reservoir whenever you are not actively adding fluid, and never leave an open container of brake fluid sitting around where it can be knocked over.
The Bleeding Procedure, Circuit by Circuit
Work on one circuit at a time and finish it completely before moving to the other. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from its master cylinder, since that line is the longest and tends to hold air the longest. If your bike has two front calipers, bleed each one in turn rather than trying to do both at once.
- Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm. Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir, but stop before the level drops near the bottom port.
- Refill with fresh fluid from the sealed container, leaving the reservoir comfortably full.
- Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so the tube's end stays submerged.
- Squeeze the front lever, or press the rear pedal, and hold it firmly. Do not release it yet.
- Open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tube. Watch the tube, not the reservoir.
- Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing with the bleeder open draws air straight back into the caliper.
- Release the lever or pedal slowly and let it return fully.
- Repeat the squeeze, hold, open, close, release cycle. Check the reservoir level every few cycles and top it off — if it runs dry you will pull air into the system and have to start over.
- Continue until the fluid coming through the tube is clean, bright, and completely free of bubbles, and the lever or pedal feels firm.
- Move to the other circuit and repeat the entire process with its own reservoir and bleeder.
Finishing Up and Checking Your Work
Close the bleeder snugly with the box-end wrench. Snug is the goal — enough to seal, not so much that you crush the seat or strip the valve. Fill the reservoir to the level marking molded into the body, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Then inspect the bleeder and the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and caliper for any weeping or wetness.
Testing Before You Ride, and When to Stop and Get Help
With the bike still supported, spin each wheel by hand and confirm the brake is not dragging. Then, in a safe open area at low speed, apply each brake separately and feel for a firm, consistent response. The lever and pedal should not sink slowly under steady pressure. If either one does, or if the lever only firms up after several pumps, there is still air in the system.
A lever that refuses to firm up after several honest bleeding attempts, fluid weeping from a master cylinder or caliper, or persistent bubbles that never stop appearing all point to a problem a home bleed will not solve. The same is true if your CB500X has ABS and the reservoir ran dry, or if the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected — air can be trapped inside the ABS unit itself, and clearing it may require a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool. In any of those cases, stop and take the bike to a shop. Brakes are not the system to gamble on.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2013 Honda CB500X Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2013 Honda CB500X Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2013 Honda CB500X Motorcycle.
Shop Stands for a 2013 Honda CB500X Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2013 Honda CB500X Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
