Bleeding the Brakes on a 2013 Honda CB500F ABS
Shop parts for a 2013 Honda CB500F ABS Motorcycle.What the CB500F ABS Brake Layout Means for Bleeding
The 2013 Honda CB500F ABS uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and the ABS designation confirms that an anti-lock braking unit is part of the system. That means you have two hydraulic circuits to service: the front circuit operated by the lever and the rear circuit operated by the pedal. A normal caliper bleed is generally the correct way to refresh fluid and remove air from the lines and calipers on this bike. The ABS unit itself is a different matter. If the reservoir has run dry, a line at the ABS unit has been opened, or the ABS unit has been removed or replaced, air may be trapped where a routine caliper bleed cannot reach it. In that situation, the bike should go to a shop with the appropriate diagnostic equipment rather than being bled further at home.
Symptoms That Call for a Bleed
Bleeding is part fluid refresh and part air removal. A spongy or soft lever, a lever that now pulls closer to the grip than it used to, or a rear pedal that feels vague are classic signs that air is in the system. Dark or cloudy fluid in either reservoir is another reason to service the brakes. You should also bleed after any work that opened the hydraulic system, such as installing new lines, servicing a caliper, or working on the master cylinder. Even without symptoms, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which lowers its boiling point and can contribute to brake fade under hard use. Many riders refresh the fluid on a regular schedule for that reason alone.
Tools and Supplies to Gather
- Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
- A length of clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder
- A catch bottle for old fluid
- Rags or shop towels
- A syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
- A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws
- Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or vacuum bleeder to make one-person work easier
Use only fluid from a sealed container, and do not reuse fluid that has been sitting open. Brake fluid is hard on paint and plastic, so keep rags close and plan to clean up immediately if any spills.
Preparing the Bike and Protecting Surfaces
Support the CB500F ABS securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working the lever or pedal. For the front circuit, turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level before you open it. Cover painted surfaces, plastics, and the instrument area with rags, because most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact. If fluid does spill, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water. Work in a well-ventilated space, and keep the reservoir cap and diaphragm clean so dirt does not fall into the fluid.
Bleeding the Front and Rear Hydraulic Circuits
Treat the front and rear as separate jobs, and finish one circuit before moving to the other. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from its master cylinder. If a bike has two front calipers, bleed each one in turn; on this CB500F ABS, work methodically through the front circuit and then the rear circuit.
- Open the reservoir for the circuit you are bleeding and remove most of the old fluid with a syringe or turkey baster. Do not let the reservoir run dry.
- Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap, leaving room for the diaphragm and cap later.
- Attach the clear tubing to the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle. Make sure the tubing fits snugly so air cannot be drawn in around it.
- Squeeze and hold the front lever, or press and hold the rear pedal, and keep it held.
- Open the bleeder about a quarter turn to let fluid and air escape through the tube. Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal.
- Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release sequence until fresh, clean, bubble-free fluid comes through the tube.
- Keep topping off the reservoir throughout the process so it never runs low enough to draw air back into the system.
- When the front circuit is complete, tighten the bleeder snugly without overtightening, then repeat the same sequence on the rear circuit using the pedal.
Finishing, Testing, and When to Stop
After bleeding, tighten each bleeder snugly without overtightening. Fill the reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and clean any spilled fluid from the bike. Check for leaks at the bleeder and at the banjo fittings. Before riding, the lever and pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before riding normally.
If the lever or pedal will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, if it firms only after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing, or if fluid is leaking from the master cylinder or caliper, stop and diagnose the problem. Any situation where air may have entered the ABS unit is also a reason to take the CB500F ABS to a shop. A firm, predictable brake feel is the confirmation that the job is complete.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2013 Honda CB500F ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2013 Honda CB500F ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2013 Honda CB500F ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Stands for a 2013 Honda CB500F ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2013 Honda CB500F ABS Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
