How To Bleed 2013 Ducati Multistrada 1200S Touring Motorcycle Brakes

Bleeding the Hydraulic Brakes on a 2013 Ducati Multistrada 1200S Touring

The 2013 Ducati Multistrada 1200S Touring uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends and is ABS-equipped. For routine maintenance, that means you can refresh the fluid and remove air at the caliper bleeders on both the front and rear systems. The ABS unit adds one important limit: if the reservoir has run dry, or if the ABS unit or its lines have been disconnected, air may have entered a part of the system that a normal caliper bleed will not clear. In that case, stop and have the bike serviced by a shop with the appropriate diagnostic equipment. This guide covers the normal bleed procedure for this model.

Why and When to Bleed the Brakes

Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, even in a sealed system. That moisture lowers the fluid’s boiling point and can contribute to brake fade when the brakes are worked hard, such as during repeated hard stops or a long descent. A bleed also removes air, which is the usual cause of a spongy lever or pedal. Plan a bleed if the front lever feels soft or pulls closer to the grip than it used to, if the rear pedal feels vague, if the fluid in either reservoir looks dark or cloudy, or if you have just replaced lines, serviced a caliper, or done master cylinder work. Many riders also refresh the fluid on a regular schedule as preventive maintenance, even when the brakes still feel normal.

Tools and Supplies You Will Need

• Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
• A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
• Clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder valve
• A catch bottle for the old fluid
• Rags or shop towels
• A syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
• A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws
• Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or vacuum bleeder to make one-person bleeding easier

Preparation and Paint Protection

Support the Multistrada securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working. Turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level before you open it. Cover the painted surfaces, plastic bodywork, and instrument area with rags, because most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact. If a spill happens, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water. Work in a well-ventilated area and keep the fluid container closed when you are not pouring from it.

Bleeding the Front Brake

1. Remove the front reservoir cap and diaphragm. Use the syringe or turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid from the reservoir, but do not let the reservoir run dry.
2. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap. Leave enough room to add more fluid as you work.
3. Fit the clear tubing snugly over the front caliper bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle. Keep the bottle below the caliper so fluid and air can flow away.
4. Squeeze the front lever slowly and hold it. With the lever held, open the bleeder about a quarter turn. You should see fluid and possibly air bubbles move through the tube.
5. Close the bleeder before you release the lever. Do not release the lever while the bleeder is open, or air can be drawn back into the system.
6. Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release cycle until fresh, clean fluid comes through the tube with no bubbles. Check the reservoir often and top it off so it never runs low enough to draw air in.
7. If your bike has two front calipers, bleed each one in turn. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder if the layout gives you a clear farthest point; on many motorcycles the difference is small, so the important part is to bleed each front caliper fully and one at a time.

Bleeding the Rear Brake

1. Locate the rear master cylinder reservoir and open it. Remove most of the old fluid with the syringe or baster, then refill with fresh fluid.
2. Attach the clear tubing to the rear caliper bleeder valve and route it into the catch bottle.
3. Press and hold the rear pedal. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn, let fluid and air escape, then close the bleeder before releasing the pedal.
4. Repeat until the fluid in the tube is clean and bubble-free, topping off the rear reservoir as needed. Keep the reservoir from running dry.

Finishing the Job

When both circuits are bled, tighten each bleeder snugly without overtightening. Fill each reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and clean any spilled fluid from the bike. Check for leaks at the bleeder valves and at the banjo fittings. A dry fitting or a bleeder that weeps after tightening needs attention before the bike is ridden.

Testing Before You Ride

The front lever and rear pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before riding normally. If anything feels inconsistent, stop and recheck the bleed or have the system inspected.

Troubleshooting and When to See a Shop

If the lever or pedal will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, if it firms only after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing, or if fluid is leaking from the master cylinder or caliper, do not keep riding. A lever that will not firm up can indicate air trapped in the ABS unit, especially if the reservoir ran dry or the ABS unit or lines were disconnected. That situation may require a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool, so it is best handled by a shop. The same applies if you are not confident that all air has been removed from the system.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.