Bleeding the Brakes on a 2011 Honda NT700V ABS
Shop parts for a 2011 Honda NT700V ABS Motorcycle.
Know Your NT700V's Brake Layout Before You Open Anything
The 2011 NT700V ABS is a fully hydraulic motorcycle at both ends. The front lever pushes fluid from the handlebar-mounted master cylinder down to the front caliper or calipers, and the rear pedal does the same job from its own master cylinder to the rear caliper. The ABS badge on the bodywork means an ABS modulator is plumbed into that hydraulic circuit, which matters later if air ever gets past the calipers. Take a minute to look over your own machine before you touch a wrench: count the calipers on the front wheel, trace the line routing, and read the reservoir caps. If your bike carries two front calipers, you will bleed each one in turn. Some versions of this model use a combined system in which the lever and pedal each influence more than one wheel; if that describes your bike, read the shop section below before starting, because combined systems have extra bleed points and a required order.
When a Bleed Is Actually Due
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time. That absorbed water lowers the fluid's boiling point, and a fluid that boils under hard, repeated braking creates vapor in the lines — which feels exactly like air and gives you a soft, fading brake. That is why many riders refresh the fluid on a schedule even when nothing feels wrong. On top of the calendar, bleed the NT700V when the lever pulls closer to the grip than it used to, when the pedal feels spongy or travels further than normal, when the fluid in either reservoir looks dark, cloudy, or gritty, or after any job that opened the hydraulic system: new lines, caliper service, master cylinder work, or a reservoir that ran dry.
Tools and Supplies to Gather
- Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on your master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container that has not been sitting open
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly — a six-point box end grips better than an open end and is less likely to round the valve
- A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple, long enough to reach your catch bottle
- A clear catch bottle, so you can watch the fluid come out
- Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for lifting old fluid out of the reservoir
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws
- Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, both of which make a one-person job much less fiddly
Setting Up the Bike and Protecting the Finish
Get the NT700V secure and upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working the lever. Turn the handlebars until the front reservoir sits level — a tilted reservoir lets fluid spill the moment the cap comes off. Then drape rags over the tank area, the plastics, the instrument cluster, and anything painted below the master cylinder. Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact, so treat every drip as urgent: wipe it immediately and rinse the area with water rather than waiting until the job is done. Lay out your tubing, bottle, and wrench before you open the reservoir so you are not hunting for tools with an open hydraulic system in front of you.
The Bleeding Procedure, Step by Step
- Wipe the reservoir cap and the area around it clean, then remove the cap and the diaphragm. Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir, leaving the bottom covered so you do not push air into the master cylinder.
- Top the reservoir up with fresh fluid from your sealed container. Keep the cap and diaphragm nearby but off, and keep an eye on the level for the rest of the job.
- Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so the tube's end stays submerged.
- Squeeze the front lever and hold it firm, or press and hold the rear pedal if you are working the rear. Hold the pressure steady.
- Open the bleeder about a quarter turn with the box-end wrench. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tube. Watch the tube, not the wrench.
- Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing first draws air back in through the open valve, which undoes the work you just did.
- Release the lever or pedal slowly, then repeat the squeeze–hold–open–close–release cycle. Check the reservoir every few cycles and top it off — letting it run dry pulls air into the master cylinder and turns a short job into a long one.
- Continue until the fluid coming through the tube runs clean and clear with no bubbles. If your bike has two front calipers, finish one completely, then repeat the whole cycle on the other. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from its master cylinder and work toward the closest.
- Move to the rear caliper and repeat the same cycle with the pedal, if your bike's rear brake is hydraulic.
Finishing Up: Bleeder, Fluid Level, and Leaks
With the last of the air out, close the bleeder snugly. Snug is the goal — firm enough to seal, not so tight that you crush the seat or damage the valve body. Pull the tubing off and wipe the caliper clean. Fill the reservoir to the level marking molded into the body, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Then inspect the bleeder valves and the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and calipers for weeping or wetness, and squeeze the lever and press the pedal a few times while you watch for fresh fluid appearing.
Testing Before You Ride
The lever and pedal should feel firm and consistent, and should hold pressure without slowly sinking toward the grip or the floor. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging — a caliper that stays applied will heat up fast. Then ride the bike at low speed in a safe, open area and apply each brake separately before you trust them at road speed.
When to Stop and Take It to a Shop
If the lever will not firm up after several full bleeding cycles, if it only firms up when you pump it, or if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you work, something else is wrong and continuing to pump fluid will not fix it. The same applies if fluid is leaking from the master cylinder or a caliper, or if the reservoir ran dry or the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected — air trapped inside an ABS modulator generally needs a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool to purge. On a combined-brake version of this bike, the extra bleed points and required sequence make a shop the safer call unless you are confident in the order. A firm, clean, leak-free system is the only acceptable result.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2011 Honda NT700V ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2011 Honda NT700V ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2011 Honda NT700V ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Stands for a 2011 Honda NT700V ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2011 Honda NT700V ABS Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
