How to Bleed the Brakes on a 2000 Kawasaki EX500 – Ninja 500
Shop parts for a 2000 Kawasaki EX500 - Ninja 500 Motorcycle.The 2000 Kawasaki EX500 – Ninja 500 uses conventional hydraulic disc brakes at both ends. It does not have ABS or a linked brake system, so the job is a straightforward front-and-rear bleed rather than a dealer-level electronic procedure. That makes it a good DIY project for a rider with basic hand tools, provided you work methodically and never let the reservoir run dry.
Why and When the EX500 Needs a Brake Bleed
Bleeding does two things: it removes air from the hydraulic system and it replaces old fluid with fresh fluid. On a 2000 EX500, the most common clue is a front lever that feels spongy or pulls closer to the grip than it used to, or a rear pedal that feels soft or inconsistent. Dark or cloudy fluid in either reservoir is another sign that a fluid refresh is overdue. You should also bleed the brakes after any work that opened the hydraulic system, such as replacing a brake line, servicing a caliper, or repairing the master cylinder.
Even when the brakes feel normal, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. That moisture lowers the fluid’s boiling point and can contribute to brake fade under hard or repeated use. Many riders refresh brake fluid on a regular schedule as preventive maintenance rather than waiting for a soft lever. If the fluid is dark, the lever is spongy, or you have just replaced a hydraulic component, plan on bleeding both the front and rear brakes on this bike.
Tools and Supplies for the Job
- Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
- A length of clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder
- A catch bottle for the old fluid
- Rags or shop towels
- A syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
- A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws
- Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or vacuum bleeder to make one-person bleeding easier
Use only fluid from a sealed container, and use the fluid type marked on the reservoir cap. Do not substitute a different fluid based on guesswork. A box-end wrench is preferable to an open-end wrench because it grips the bleeder more securely and reduces the chance of rounding it.
Preparing the Bike and Protecting the Finish
Support the motorcycle securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working. Turn the handlebars so the front master cylinder reservoir sits level before you open it. Cover painted surfaces, plastic bodywork, and the instrument area with rags or shop towels. Most brake fluid damages paint and plastic on contact, so wipe up any spill immediately and rinse the area with water. Do not open a reservoir until the surrounding area is protected.
Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm, then use a syringe or turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid from the reservoir. Leave enough fluid in the bottom so you do not introduce air into the master cylinder. Refill with fresh fluid before you begin bleeding. Keep the reservoir cap and diaphragm clean and set them aside where they will not pick up dirt.
Bleeding the Front Brake
The front master cylinder is on the handlebar and the front caliper is at the front wheel. If your bike has two front calipers, bleed each one in turn and start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder. The procedure is the same for either side.
- Remove most of the old fluid from the front reservoir, then refill it with fresh fluid to the level marking. Do not let the reservoir run dry at any point.
- Attach the clear tubing to the front caliper bleeder and route the other end into the catch bottle. Make sure the tubing fits snugly so air cannot be drawn in around it.
- Fit the box-end wrench onto the bleeder. Squeeze the front brake lever slowly and hold it firm against the grip.
- Open the bleeder about a quarter turn and let fluid and air escape through the tubing. Watch the tube so you can see bubbles and the color of the fluid.
- Close the bleeder before you release the lever. Never release the lever while the bleeder is open, or air can be drawn back into the caliper.
- Release the lever slowly, then repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release sequence. Check the reservoir after every few cycles and top it off with fresh fluid.
- Continue until fresh, clean fluid comes through the tubing with no bubbles. Keep the reservoir above the low mark throughout the process.
- If the bike has two front calipers, repeat the same sequence on the other caliper, starting with the one farthest from the master cylinder. Top off the reservoir when finished.
Bleeding the Rear Brake
The rear brake on this EX500 is also hydraulic, so it needs the same treatment. The rear master cylinder is near the pedal and the rear caliper has its own bleeder. Work with the bike upright and the rear reservoir level.
- Open the rear reservoir, remove most of the old fluid, and refill with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap.
- Attach the clear tubing to the rear caliper bleeder and route it into the catch bottle. Fit the box-end wrench onto the bleeder.
- Press the rear brake pedal and hold it firm. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn, let fluid and air out, then close the bleeder before releasing the pedal.
- Repeat the press-hold-open-close-release sequence, topping off the reservoir as needed, until the fluid runs clean and bubble-free.
- Tighten the bleeder snugly without overtightening, then refill the reservoir to the correct level marking.
Finishing Up and Testing the Brakes
Once both brakes have been bled, tighten each bleeder snugly without overtightening. Fill each reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and clean up any spilled fluid. Check for leaks at the bleeder valves and at the banjo fittings where the brake lines attach. A dry fitting after bleeding is a good sign; a wet fitting needs attention before you ride.
Before riding, squeeze the front lever and press the rear pedal. Both should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and neither should slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before riding normally. If the lever or pedal will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, if it firms only after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing, or if fluid leaks from the master cylinder or caliper, stop and have the system inspected. This bike has neither ABS nor linked brakes, so those extra bleed points are not part of this job; if you ever work on a bike that does have them, follow its specific procedure or take it to a shop.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2000 Kawasaki EX500 - Ninja 500 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2000 Kawasaki EX500 - Ninja 500 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2000 Kawasaki EX500 - Ninja 500 Motorcycle.
Shop Stands for a 2000 Kawasaki EX500 - Ninja 500 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2000 Kawasaki EX500 - Ninja 500 Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
