Bleeding the Brakes on a 2017 Honda CB1100 EX
Shop parts for a 2017 Honda CB1100 EX Motorcycle.
Know Your Bike Before You Open Anything
The 2017 Honda CB1100 EX uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and this generation of the EX is fitted with anti-lock braking as part of its standard equipment. That means you have a front master cylinder at the lever, a rear master cylinder at the pedal, and calipers at each wheel fed by hard lines and flexible hoses. It also means the fluid you are refreshing passes through an ABS modulator on its way to the calipers, which matters later if anything goes wrong.
The good news is that a routine fluid flush and air removal on this bike is a normal caliper-level bleed. You are working at the reservoir and at the bleeder valves on the calipers, not inside the ABS unit. Keep that distinction in mind throughout: as long as the system stays sealed and the reservoir never runs dry, the ABS hardware takes care of itself.
Why and When the CB1100 EX Needs a Bleed
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time. Moisture does two harmful things. It lowers the fluid's boiling point, so hard repeated braking can generate vapor in the lines and give you a lever that goes soft exactly when you need it most. It also darkens the fluid and can accelerate wear inside the system. That is why many riders treat a bleed as scheduled maintenance rather than a repair, refreshing the fluid every couple of seasons whether or not anything feels wrong.
On top of the calendar, bleed the brakes whenever the lever or pedal feels spongy, when the front lever creeps closer to the grip than it used to, when the fluid in the sight glass or reservoir looks dark or cloudy, or after any job that opened the hydraulic circuit — new lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work. Air that enters during those jobs has to come out before the bike is safe to ride hard.
Tools and Supplies to Have Ready
- Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container. Do not substitute a different type.
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve on your caliper snugly.
- Clear tubing that slips tightly over the bleeder nipple, plus a small catch bottle.
- Rags or shop towels, and a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir.
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws.
- Optional but helpful: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, which makes a solo job much less fiddly.
Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact, so plan to catch every drop. Wipe spills immediately and rinse the area with water.
Setting Up the Bike
Get the CB1100 EX secure and upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are leaning on the lever. Turn the handlebar so the front reservoir sits level, then drape rags over the tank, the instrument cluster, and any painted or plastic surfaces below the reservoir. Lay a rag under each caliper as well. Take a photo of the reservoir interior before you start if you want a reference for the correct fluid level.
The Bleeding Procedure
- Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm. Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir, leaving enough to cover the port at the bottom so you do not push air into the master cylinder.
- Top the reservoir up with fresh fluid from the sealed container.
- Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so the tubing runs upward away from the bleeder.
- Squeeze the front lever and hold it firm. With the lever held, open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tubing.
- Close the bleeder before you release the lever. Releasing with the bleeder open draws air back in through the valve.
- Repeat squeeze, hold, open, close, release. Watch the tubing: you are looking for a steady stream of clean fluid with no bubbles. Keep an eye on the reservoir and top it off every few cycles so it never drops low enough to pull air into the master cylinder.
- If your bike has two front calipers, bleed them one at a time, completing one fully before moving to the other. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder in terms of hydraulic path, then finish with the closer one.
- Move to the rear. The rear master cylinder is fed by the pedal, so the rhythm is press and hold the pedal, open the bleeder, close it, then release. Use the same tubing and bottle setup and the same discipline about never releasing with the valve open.
Finishing the Job Cleanly
When clean, bubble-free fluid is coming through at both ends, close the bleeder snugly with the box-end wrench. Snug is the goal — do not lean on it, because overtightening can damage the valve seat. Fill the reservoir to the level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Then inspect the bleeder valves and the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and calipers for weeping or dampness. A dry fitting after a few firm lever pulls is what you want to see.
Test Before You Ride
Pull the front lever and press the rear pedal. Both should feel firm and consistent, and neither should slowly sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then, in a safe open area, test the brakes at low speed before riding normally. If anything feels vague at that first low-speed check, stop and investigate rather than assuming it will bed in.
When to Stop and Take It to a Shop
If the lever will not firm up after several honest bleeding attempts, if it only firms after pumping, or if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you work, something else is going on — a worn master cylinder seal, a pinhole in a line, or air trapped somewhere you cannot reach from the caliper. Leaks at the master cylinder or caliper also end the home job. And if the reservoir ever ran completely dry, or the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected, air may now be inside the ABS modulator. That requires a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool to cycle the unit properly, and the bike should go to a shop rather than be ridden.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2017 Honda CB1100 EX Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2017 Honda CB1100 EX Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2017 Honda CB1100 EX Motorcycle.
Shop Stands for a 2017 Honda CB1100 EX Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2017 Honda CB1100 EX Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
