How to Change Brake Pads on a 2000 Husqvarna CR50

Shop parts for a 2000 Husqvarna CR50 Dirt Bike.

Why fresh brake pads matter on a 2000 Husqvarna CR50

Even on a small-displacement youth motocross bike like the 2000 Husqvarna CR50, reliable braking is essential for rider control, lap times, and avoiding crashes. Most modern dirt bikes including the 2000 Husqvarna CR50 use hydraulic disc brakes – a brake lever or pedal pushes fluid through a master cylinder and hydraulic line to a caliper that squeezes pads against a steel rotor. Worn pads reduce stopping power, increase rotor wear, and compromise safety.

Basic brake system components

  • Brake lever or pedal – the rider input device.
  • Master cylinder & hydraulic line – converts lever force into hydraulic pressure.
  • Brake caliper – holds the pads and pistons that press on the rotor.
  • Brake pads & backing plates – friction material that contacts the rotor.
  • Brake rotor (disc) – steel disc attached to the wheel that the pads clamp.

Hydraulic pressure pushes the caliper pistons, which force the pads against the rotor to slow the bike.

Signs the CR50 needs new brake pads

  • Reduced braking power or longer stopping distances.
  • Squealing, grinding, or metallic scraping sounds when braking.
  • Excessive lever or pedal travel before pressure is felt.
  • Visible pad material worn thin – backing plate or rivets showing.
  • Heat discoloration, scoring, or grooves on the rotor surface.

Inspect pads after muddy rides, aggressive motocross sessions, or if you notice any of the symptoms above.

Tools and supplies you'll need

  • Socket set or wrenches for axle and caliper bolts
  • Pliers or small punch for retaining clip/pin
  • Flat screwdriver or plastic pry tool
  • C-clamp or brake piston tool
  • Clean rags and isopropyl alcohol
  • New brake pads designed for the 2000 Husqvarna CR50
  • Torque wrench for axle and caliper bolts (if available)

Step-by-step – changing brake pads on a 2000 Husqvarna CR50

  1. Prepare the bike and workspace. Park on level ground, engage neutral, and remove the key. Gather tools and new pads. Work in a clean, well-lit area.
  2. Support the bike. Use a motorcycle stand or a stable block under the frame so the wheel is off the ground. For the front brake you can remove the front wheel or leave it on depending on caliper access; many CR50 calipers allow pad changes with the wheel installed.
  3. Access the caliper. If necessary remove any fork guards. Clean mud and grit from the caliper exterior with a rag to avoid pushing debris into the caliper when it's opened.
  4. Remove the retaining pin or clip. Locate the pad retaining pin(s) or spring clip on the caliper. Use pliers or a punch to slide out the pin and remove the clip. Keep hardware organized for reassembly.
  5. Slide the old pads out. Carefully remove the pads from the caliper. Note pad orientation and any shims so you can fit the new pads the same way. If the pads stick, gently pry with a flat screwdriver while supporting the caliper.
  6. Inspect rotor and caliper. Look for grooves, scoring, or heat discoloration on the rotor. Check the caliper bore for corrosion or leaks and make sure the caliper slides or pins move freely.
  7. Compress the caliper piston(s). With the old pads removed, slowly compress the piston(s) back into the caliper to create clearance for the new pads. Use a C-clamp or piston tool and a rag to protect the piston face. Compress evenly and stop if resistance rises quickly – do not damage seals.
  8. Install the new pads. Fit the new pad material into the caliper in the same orientation as the originals. Ensure backing plates sit flush and any anti-rattle springs or shims are installed with them.
  9. Reinstall retaining hardware. Slide the retaining pin(s) and clip(s) back into place. Verify pins are fully seated and clips secure so pads cannot move.
  10. Reinstall wheel / reassemble. If you removed the wheel, reinstall it and torque the axle and pinch bolts to spec if known. Replace any fork guards.
  11. Pump the lever or pedal. With the engine off, pump the lever or press the pedal several times until pad contact and firm pressure are restored. This seats the pads close to the rotor and restores hydraulic pressure.
  12. Quick road check. Roll the bike slowly and test brakes at walking speed to confirm normal engagement before riding at speed.

Helpful inspection tips while you work

  • Measure rotor thickness relative to new rotor specs if available – deep grooves or thin rotors mean replacement.
  • Look for brake fluid leaks around the caliper pistons, hose banjo, and master cylinder fittings.
  • Ensure caliper slide pins move freely after cleaning; sticky slides cause uneven pad wear.
  • Clean the caliper bracket, pad grooves, and rotor contact area with isopropyl alcohol, not oily cleaners.
  • Confirm retaining pin and clips are not bent or damaged – reuse only if in good condition.

Bedding in new pads

Bedding helps the pads match the rotor surface for consistent stopping power. Perform 8–12 moderate decelerations from about walking to slow riding speed, allowing the brakes to cool briefly between groups of stops. Avoid hard stops for the first few miles so the pad compound transfers evenly without glazing the surface.

Notes on CR50 brake setups and generational notes

The 2000 Husqvarna CR50 is a youth motocross bike that typically uses a simple single-disc hydraulic setup front and rear typical of small displacement motocross and youth dirt bikes. Most modern dirt bikes including the 2000 Husqvarna CR50 use hydraulic disc brakes with a caliper squeezing pads against a steel rotor. If your bike has aftermarket rotors or different caliper hardware, the basic pad-change steps are the same but hardware and pin types can vary. If you remember when reassembling that your caliper design differs from other years, adjust the step order slightly to match the retained pin orientation and wheel removal needs.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.