How to Bleed and Replace Brake Fluid on a 2012 Can-Am Outlander MAX 400
Shop parts for a 2012 Can-Am Outlander MAX 400 ATV.
This MotoSport proprietary guide walks you through safely flushing, replacing, and bleeding the brake fluid on a 2012 Can-Am Outlander MAX 400. Follow these steps carefully to restore firm brake lever/pedal feel and preserve system components.
Safety & preparation
- Work on a level surface; park ATV in gear with engine off and parking brake engaged.
- Wear eye protection and nitrile gloves. Brake fluid is corrosive to paint and plastics.
- Have a catch container, clear tubing to fit bleeder nipples, rags, a turkey baster or fluid syringe, and a torque wrench for fasteners.
- Use the factory-specified brake fluid type (factory-specified DOT 4). Confirm with your owner’s manual or printed sticker on the reservoir before starting.
- Do not let used fluid re-enter the reservoir; dispose of waste fluid per local regulations.
Tools & supplies
- New DOT 4 brake fluid (fresh, unopened)
- Clear 3/16" or 1/4" vinyl hose to fit bleeder nipples
- Bleeder block, vacuum pump, or bench bleed kit (optional but speeds the job)
- Wrenches for bleeder nipples (commonly 8 mm or 9 mm) and reservoir cap
- Rubber caps or plugs to protect fittings
- Shop rags and a drip tray
Model notes for the 2012 Can-Am Outlander MAX 400
- The Outlander MAX 400 uses a single master cylinder feeding both front and rear circuits via a combined hydraulic system; there is no integral ABS control module on most 2012 non-optional models. Confirm your specific machine has no electronic braking components before disconnecting lines.
- Reservoir location: the master cylinder reservoir is mounted near the right handlebar for front brakes and a separate reservoir or line junction may feed the rear circuit. Familiarize yourself with both reservoir levels before starting.
- Brake lines on this model route close to plastic bodywork and frame; protect painted surfaces from spills. Replace any lines or hoses that show cracking, swelling, or leakage.
- If your bike has long storage intervals or lived in wet climates, expect darker fluid and plan a full system flush instead of partial bleeding.
Step-by-step: Replace & bleed brake fluid (full system flush)
- Remove any plastic panels blocking access to the master cylinder and calipers. Clean around the reservoir cap to avoid contamination.
- Loosen the reservoir cap slowly to relieve pressure. Remove the cap and diaphragm; keep the reservoir top clean.
- Use a turkey baster or syringe to remove as much old fluid from the reservoir as possible. Wipe the inside with a clean lint-free rag if necessary.
- Refill the reservoir with fresh DOT 4 to the specified max level. Replace the cap loosely to reduce splashing but allow airflow if you will be pumping the lever/pedal.
- Identify bleeder nipples at each caliper. Fit clear hose over the nipple and submerge the other end in a small container with a bit of fresh fluid to observe bubbles and prevent air re-entry.
- Start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and progress to the nearest. On most Outlander MAX layouts that means: rear caliper first, then passenger/front outer, then driver/front inner (verify your layout visually). The rule is farthest-to-closest relative to the master cylinder.
- Crack the bleeder nipple about a quarter turn. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake lever or pedal several times then hold it down. Open the nipple briefly to let fluid and air escape, then close the nipple before the lever/pedal is released. Repeat until you see no air bubbles and fluid runs clear.
- Keep the reservoir topped up during the process. Never let it run dry; introducing air into the master cylinder will lengthen the procedure.
- If using a vacuum pump or hand pump: attach to each bleeder, pump until clean fluid flows, then close the nipple while maintaining vacuum. Vacuum bleeding reduces the need for an assistant.
- After each caliper is bled, recheck the lever/pedal feel. If spongy, repeat the sequence until firm feel is restored.
- When finished, tighten bleeder nipples to factory snugness, wipe any fluid residue, and properly seat the reservoir diaphragm & cap. Torque caliper hardware and lines to spec if you removed them.
- Test brakes slowly at low speed in a safe area to confirm performance before normal riding. Reinspect for leaks after the test ride.
Tips & common pitfalls
- If you see persistent bubbles, check for a leaking master cylinder seal or cracked line that can draw air. Replace defective components.
- A full-system flush (replacing fluid in reservoir, bleeding all calipers) yields the best result; partial bleeding may leave contaminated fluid in low spots.
- Never mix DOT 3, 4 & 5 silicone fluid. DOT 5 is silicone-based and incompatible with DOT 3/4 systems.
- Old fluid that is dark brown/black indicates moisture contamination and reduced boiling point — replace immediately.
- If you removed wheels or calipers, re-torque axle and caliper bolts to factory values and re-center calipers if required.
Aftercare
- Record the date and mileage of the fluid change. Brake fluid typically should be replaced every 1-2 years depending on use and environment.
- Inspect brake pads, rotors, lines, and fittings while you have access. Replace pads with less than recommended thickness or rotors with scoring/excessive wear.
- Keep a small spare bottle of fresh DOT 4 on hand for top-ups in between services.
Performing a clean flush and careful bleed will restore brake performance and extend component life on your 2012 Can-Am Outlander MAX 400. If you encounter internal master cylinder issues, persistent air, or electrical braking components you did not expect, consult a trained technician or authorized dealer.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2012 Can-Am Outlander MAX 400 ATV.
Shop Brake Bleeders for a 2012 Can-Am Outlander MAX 400 ATV.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2012 Can-Am Outlander MAX 400 ATV.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2012 Can-Am Outlander MAX 400 ATV.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2012 Can-Am Outlander MAX 400 ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.