How to Bleed and Replace Brake Fluid on a 2010 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4

Shop parts for a 2010 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 ATV.

This MotoSport-exclusive guide walks you through flushing and bleeding the brake systems on the 2010 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4. Procedures below are written for the Grizzly's separate front and rear hydraulic systems (hand lever for the front, foot pedal for the rear). Use DOT 4 brake fluid unless your owner's manual specifies otherwise. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and corrosive to paint & plastics; handle and dispose of it properly.

Tools & supplies

  • DOT 4 brake fluid (new, unopened)
  • Clear plastic tubing to fit bleed nipples
  • Catch bottle (marked for used fluid)
  • Wrench for bleed nipples (open-end, size per bike)
  • Vacuum bleeder or hand pump (optional but speeds job)
  • Syringe or turkey baster (for removing old fluid from master reservoirs)
  • Shop rags, rubber gloves, safety glasses
  • Torque wrench (for caliper bolts if removed)

Precautions

  • Work on a level surface with the engine off and key removed.
  • Avoid contamination: keep reservoirs closed when not working and never reuse fluid removed from the system.
  • Protect painted surfaces – brake fluid will damage paint. Wipe spills immediately and rinse with water.
  • If the bike has ABS, consult the manual for ABS bleed procedure; some ABS units require a scan tool or special cycle.

Overview of the Grizzly 700 brake layout

The 2010 Grizzly 700 typically has a front master at the right handlebar operating one or two calipers depending on the model, and a rear master via the foot pedal operating the rear caliper. Treat each hydraulic circuit separately; do not mix fluid between circuits.

Step 1 – Prepare the machine

  • Raise the ATV securely so wheels can turn freely if needed.
  • Clean around master reservoirs and bleed nipples to prevent dirt entry.
  • Remove reservoir caps and diaphragms. If fluid is dark or contaminated, siphon most old fluid out with a syringe and dispose of it properly.
  • Top reservoirs with fresh DOT 4 fluid. Keep caps loosely in place or covered to limit contamination.

Step 2 – Determine bleed order

Bleed the brake circuit starting at the caliper farthest from its master cylinder and finish at the closest. For the front system with two calipers, bleed the far side first then the near side; for the rear, bleed the single rear caliper.

Step 3 – Manual two-person bleed method

  • One person pumps the lever or pedal slowly several times and holds pressure.
  • Second person opens the bleed nipple about a 1/4 turn until fluid runs out, then closes it before the lever/pedal is released. Repeat until fluid runs clear and bubble-free. Keep the reservoir full throughout.
  • Work methodically: far caliper → next caliper → closest to master.
  • After bleeding, top the reservoir to the proper level, reinstall diaphragm and cap, and clean any spills.

Step 4 – Single-person vacuum or pressure bleed

  • Attach clear tubing to the bleed nipple, place other end into the catch bottle.
  • Use a vacuum pump on the bleed nipple or a pressure bleeder on the reservoir following the tool manufacturer instructions.
  • Open bleed nipple and draw fluid until it runs clear and bubble-free. Close nipple before removing tubing.
  • Work in the same far-to-near order and keep the reservoir topped up.

Step 5 – Final checks

  • Verify lever and pedal feel: lever should be firm with a small free play; pedal should not sink under steady pressure. If spongy, repeat bleed cycle.
  • Check for leaks at hoses, fittings, calipers, and master cylinders. Re-torque caliper bolts if they were loosened (use service manual specs).
  • Wipe everything clean of residual fluid and properly dispose of used fluid.
  • Road-test at low speed to confirm brake performance before full use.

Model-specific notes & owner tips for the 2010 Grizzly 700

  • Many Grizzly 700s have separate front and rear circuits — never cross-contaminate reservoirs.
  • If your Grizzly is equipped with any factory brake proportioning or ABS components (varies by trim), follow the factory bleed routine; ABS modules can trap air and sometimes require special cycling to purge.
  • Reserve fresh DOT 4 fluid in original sealed containers; DOT 5 (silicone) is not compatible with DOT 4 systems.
  • If calipers are sticking or pistons are seized, clean and rebuild or replace. Replacing fluid alone won't restore seized caliper function.
  • Service interval: consider flushing brake fluid every 1-2 years depending on use and moisture exposure to maintain performance and prevent internal corrosion.

Troubleshooting

  • Persistent spongy lever/pedal after thorough bleeding – inspect for internal master cylinder seals leaking or caliper piston seals failing.
  • Air appearing repeatedly suggests a leak or failed hose/banjo fitting; pressure test the system and replace faulty components.
  • Uneven braking or pulling – check pad wear, rotor condition, caliper guide pins, and pad alignment.

Complete this service with care & patience. If you encounter ABS complications or internal master/caliper failures, consult a qualified technician or MotoSport service resources for model-specific repair assistance.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Brake Fluid for a 2010 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 ATV.

Shop Brake Bleeders for a 2010 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 ATV.

Shop Brake Pads for a 2010 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 ATV.

Shop Brake Lines for a 2010 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 ATV.

Shop Brake Tools for a 2010 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.