Bleeding the Brakes on a 2017 Kawasaki Concours 14 ABS
Shop parts for a 2017 Kawasaki ZG1400 - Concours ABS Motorcycle.
Know the System Before You Open It
The 2017 Kawasaki Concours 14 ABS — the ZG1400 — is a sport-touring machine that relies on hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and it is equipped with anti-lock braking. That ABS badge matters for this job. On a bike like this, a routine fluid refresh done through the caliper bleeders is well within reach of a home mechanic. What is not within reach is purging air that has migrated into the ABS hydraulic unit itself. If the reservoir has ever run dry, if a line or the ABS unit has been off the bike, or if the system has been opened upstream of the calipers, the pump and internal passages may hold air that a lever-and-bleeder routine will not clear. That situation calls for a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool, and the honest move is to trailer the bike to a shop rather than chase a soft lever for an afternoon.
This model also uses a linked braking arrangement, where the front lever and rear pedal each influence braking at more than one wheel. Linked systems carry additional bleed points and a defined sequence. The general procedure below will refresh fluid at the calipers, but if you are not confident about the full sequence for a linked system, hand the job to a professional. There is no shame in that — there is only risk in guessing.
Why and When to Bleed
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time. Moisture does two unhelpful things: it lowers the fluid's boiling point, so hard repeated braking can generate vapor in the lines and give you a lever that goes soft exactly when you need it most, and it corrodes the internals of the master cylinder and calipers. That is why many riders refresh fluid on a schedule even when nothing feels wrong.
On top of the calendar, bleed when you notice symptoms:
- A lever or pedal that feels spongy, or that travels closer to the grip or your boot than it used to
- Fluid in the reservoir that has gone dark, cloudy, or murky
- Any service that opened the hydraulic system — new lines, caliper work, master cylinder repair, or a pad change that pushed fluid back up the circuit
- A lever that firms up only after several quick pumps
Tools and Supplies
Gather everything before you crack a bleeder so you are not hunting for a rag with fluid dripping.
- Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container. Do not substitute a different type, and do not use a bottle that has been open and sitting on a shelf.
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly — a box-end grips the flats far better than an open-end and is much less likely to round the valve.
- Clear tubing sized to fit tightly over the bleeder nipple, plus a catch bottle to route the old fluid into.
- Rags or shop towels, and a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir.
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws.
- Optional but genuinely helpful for a solo job: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder.
Set Up So Nothing Gets Damaged
Put the bike on a stand so it sits securely upright and will not tip while you are working the lever. Turn the handlebars until the front reservoir sits level — a tilted reservoir will spill the moment you remove the cap. Drape rags over the tank, the fairing panels, the instrument cluster, and anything else below the reservoir and calipers. Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact, and the Concours carries a lot of bodywork worth protecting. If a drop lands anyway, wipe it immediately and rinse the area with water.
The Bleeding Procedure, Step by Step
- Wipe the reservoir cap and surrounding area clean so grit cannot fall in, then remove the cap and diaphragm.
- Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Leave enough to cover the port at the bottom — never let the reservoir run dry, or you will pull air straight into the system.
- Top off with fresh fluid from the sealed container.
- Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so you can see the fluid moving through the tube.
- If your bike has two front calipers, work on one at a time and finish it completely before moving to the other. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder in terms of hydraulic path.
- Squeeze the front lever and hold it firm. For the rear, press and hold the pedal.
- With the lever or pedal held, open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tube. Watch the tube, not your hands.
- Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing with the valve open draws air back in through the bleeder — this is the single most common mistake in the job.
- Release the lever or pedal slowly, then repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close cycle. Check the reservoir every few cycles and top it off.
- Continue until the fluid coming through the tube runs clean and clear with no bubbles. Then close the bleeder snugly — firm, not gorilla-tight, since overtightening can damage the valve seat.
- Repeat the whole process at the rear caliper if your bike's rear brake is hydraulic, which it is on this model.
Finishing and Verifying
Fill the reservoir to the level marking on the body, not past it — an overfilled reservoir can push fluid out when the pads wear and the pistons retract. Reinstall the diaphragm and cap and wipe down every surface you touched. Look closely at the bleeder valves and at the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and calipers for any weeping or dampness. A dry paper towel wiped across a fitting tells you more than your eyes will.
Test Before You Ride
With the bike upright, pull the lever and press the pedal. Both should feel firm and consistent, and neither should slowly sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel by hand and confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then find a quiet, clean patch of pavement and test at low speed, building up gradually. If anything feels vague, soft, or inconsistent, stop and diagnose rather than riding it out.
When to Stop and Call a Shop
If the lever will not firm up after several full bleeding cycles, if it only firms after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you bleed, or if you find fluid leaking at the master cylinder or a caliper, put the tools down. Persistent air on an ABS-equipped, linked system like the Concours 14's often means air is trapped where a hand bleed cannot reach it. That is a shop job, and it is the right call.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2017 Kawasaki ZG1400 - Concours ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2017 Kawasaki ZG1400 - Concours ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2017 Kawasaki ZG1400 - Concours ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Stands for a 2017 Kawasaki ZG1400 - Concours ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2017 Kawasaki ZG1400 - Concours ABS Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.