Bleeding the Brakes on a 2000 Kawasaki ZG1000 Concours
Shop parts for a 2000 Kawasaki ZG1000 - Concours Motorcycle.What This Bleed Covers on the ZG1000
The 2000 Kawasaki ZG1000 Concours uses conventional hydraulic disc brakes at both ends. There is no ABS unit and no linked brake system on this model, so the front lever and the rear pedal each operate their own hydraulic circuit. This job is a fluid flush and air-removal procedure, not a pad, rotor, caliper, or line replacement. If you have just replaced a brake line, serviced a caliper, or worked on a master cylinder, bleed the circuit you opened before riding. The goal is simple: push fresh fluid through the system while carrying trapped air out through the caliper bleeder.
When a Bleed Is Due
A spongy or soft lever, a lever that now pulls closer to the grip than it used to, or a rear pedal that feels vague are all signs that air or old fluid is affecting the system. Dark or cloudy fluid in the reservoir is another clear indicator. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which lowers its boiling point and can lead to brake fade under hard use, so many riders refresh it on a regular schedule even when the brakes still feel normal. A lever that slowly sinks under steady pressure can indicate air, but it can also point to a failing master cylinder; bleed first, and if the problem persists, have the bike inspected.
Tools and Supplies
- Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
- Clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder
- A catch bottle for old fluid
- Rags or shop towels
- A syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
- A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws
A one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder can make a one-person job easier, but the basic lever-and-bleeder method below works with a helper or with patience. Use only the fluid type printed on the reservoir cap, and do not reuse fluid that has been sitting open.
Preparing the Bike and Work Area
Support the Concours securely upright on a stand so the reservoirs sit level. Turn the handlebars as needed so the front reservoir is level before you open it, and keep the bike upright when working with the rear reservoir. Cover painted surfaces, plastics, and the instrument area with rags, because most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact. If a spill happens, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water. Keep the reservoir cap and diaphragm clean and set them on a clean rag while you work.
Step-by-Step Bleeding Procedure
Work on one hydraulic circuit at a time. As a general rule, start with the caliper farthest from its master cylinder. On the front, bleed each caliper one at a time. For the rear, use the rear brake pedal and the rear caliper bleeder. The steps below apply to both circuits.
- Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm. Use a syringe or turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid, but leave enough to cover the port at the bottom. Do not let the reservoir run dry.
- Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap. Keep the cap and diaphragm nearby, but do not let debris fall into the reservoir.
- Fit the box-end wrench onto the bleeder valve. Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder and route the other end into the catch bottle.
- Squeeze the front lever, or press the rear pedal, and hold it steady. Do not pump it rapidly.
- Open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and air will exit through the tube. Watch the tubing for bubbles and for the color of the fluid.
- Close the bleeder before releasing the lever or pedal. This prevents air from being drawn back into the system.
- Release the lever or pedal slowly. Check the reservoir level and top it off before the next cycle.
- Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release sequence until fresh, clean, bubble-free fluid comes through the tube. If the front has more than one caliper, repeat the process on each caliper in turn, keeping the reservoir topped off.
- Throughout the job, never let the reservoir fall low enough to draw air. If it does, stop, refill, and restart the bleeding sequence for that circuit.
Finishing and Leak Check
Tighten the bleeder snugly without overtightening. Fill the reservoir to the correct level marking, then reinstall the diaphragm and cap. Clean any spilled fluid with rags and rinse the area with water. Check the bleeder and the banjo fittings for leaks. Operate the lever and pedal and hold pressure for a moment; there should be no seepage at any fitting.
Testing Before You Ride
The lever and pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before riding normally. If either brake feels soft or inconsistent, do not ride the bike until the problem is resolved.
Troubleshooting and When to Stop
If the lever or pedal will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, if it firms only after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing, or if fluid leaks from the master cylinder or caliper, stop and have the bike inspected. Because this Concours has no ABS or linked system, there is no special ABS bleed sequence to follow; if a standard bleed does not solve the problem, the issue is likely bleed technique, a leak, or a component fault. A brake system that will not hold a firm lever is not safe to ride.
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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.