Bleeding the Brakes on a 1995 Kawasaki EX500 Ninja 500

Shop parts for a 1995 Kawasaki EX500 - Ninja 500 Motorcycle.

What This Bleed Covers on the EX500

The 1995 Kawasaki EX500 Ninja 500 is fitted with hydraulic disc brakes at both the front and rear wheels. The front brake is operated by the lever on the handlebar, and the rear brake is operated by the foot pedal; each circuit has its own master cylinder, reservoir, and caliper bleeder. This bike does not have ABS or a linked brake system, so the front and rear circuits can be bled independently. That is good news for a home mechanic, because the job stays straightforward: refresh the fluid, push air out through the caliper bleeder, and confirm a firm lever and pedal. If your particular EX500 has been modified with more than one front caliper, treat each caliper as a separate bleed point and bleed them one at a time.

When a Brake Bleed Is Due

Bleeding is not only for a brake that already feels wrong. A spongy lever or a pedal that travels farther than it used to is the classic sign that air is in the hydraulic system. A lever that pulls closer to the grip, a pedal that feels soft, or a brake that firms up only after several pumps also points to air. Dark, cloudy, or contaminated fluid in the reservoir is another reason to flush the system. So is any recent work that opened the hydraulics, such as new brake lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work. Even when the brakes feel normal, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. That moisture lowers the fluid’s boiling point and can contribute to brake fade under hard use, so many riders refresh the fluid on a regular schedule as preventive maintenance.

Tools and Supplies to Stage First

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
  • Clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder valve
  • A catch bottle for the old fluid
  • Rags or shop towels
  • A syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
  • A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws

A one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder can make the job easier when you are working alone, but the manual squeeze-and-hold method works fine with a helper or with patience. Keep the fluid container capped when you are not pouring, and do not reuse fluid that has been sitting open.

Preparing the Bike and Protecting Surfaces

Support the EX500 securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working. Turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level before you open it. Cover the painted surfaces, plastics, and instrument area with rags, because most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact. If a spill happens, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water. Locate both reservoirs and confirm the fluid type marked on each cap. Remove the cap and diaphragm, then use the syringe or turkey baster to take most of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Leave a little fluid in the bottom so you do not push air into the master cylinder, then refill with fresh fluid from the sealed container.

Bleeding the Front Brake

  1. Confirm the front reservoir is filled with fresh fluid and the cap is off but the area is protected with rags.
  2. Fit the box-end wrench onto the front caliper bleeder valve, then push the clear tubing onto the bleeder and route the other end into the catch bottle.
  3. Squeeze the front lever slowly and hold it firm. Do not pump it rapidly; a steady squeeze moves fluid and air predictably.
  4. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn and let fluid and air escape through the tubing. Watch the tube, not the reservoir, while the bleeder is open.
  5. Close the bleeder before you release the lever. Releasing the lever with the bleeder open can draw air back into the caliper.
  6. Release the lever slowly, then check the reservoir and top it off with fresh fluid. Never let the reservoir run low enough to draw air into the master cylinder.
  7. Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release sequence until the fluid coming through the tube is clean, fresh, and free of bubbles.
  8. If your bike has two front calipers, bleed each caliper separately, one at a time. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder.
  9. When the front circuit is done, close the bleeder snugly without overtightening it. Fill the reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe away any spilled fluid.

Bleeding the Rear Brake

  1. Check the rear reservoir level and keep it level while you work. Remove the cap and diaphragm, and top off with fresh fluid as needed.
  2. Place the box-end wrench on the rear caliper bleeder valve and attach the clear tubing, routing it into the catch bottle.
  3. Press and hold the rear brake pedal firmly. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn and let fluid and air flow out.
  4. Close the bleeder before releasing the pedal, then release the pedal slowly and top off the reservoir.
  5. Repeat the press-hold-open-close-release sequence until the fluid is clean and bubble-free.
  6. Finish by closing the bleeder snugly without overtightening, filling the reservoir to the level marking, and reinstalling the diaphragm and cap.

Finishing, Testing, and Troubleshooting

Clean any spilled fluid from the reservoir, caliper, and surrounding parts, then check for leaks at the bleeder valves and banjo fittings. The front lever and rear pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Before riding normally, test the brakes at low speed in a safe area. If the lever or pedal will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, if it firms only after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing, or if fluid is leaking from the master cylinder or caliper, stop and have the bike inspected by a shop. This EX500 does not have ABS or linked brakes, so those extra procedures do not apply here, but any bike with an ABS unit or a linked system can require a different bleed sequence if air has entered the unit itself. When in doubt, a professional bleed is cheaper than a brake failure.

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Shop Brake Tools for a 1995 Kawasaki EX500 - Ninja 500 Motorcycle.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.