How to Bleed & Replace Brake Fluid on a 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 500 DPS

Shop parts for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 500 DPS ATV.

This MotoSport proprietary guide walks you through flushing and bleeding the hydraulic brake system on a 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 500 DPS. Follow these steps carefully & use proper safety precautions. If you’re unsure at any point, stop and contact a qualified technician.

What you need

  • DOT-rated brake fluid (see reservoir cap for spec; DOT 4 recommended as a typical OEM spec — verify on your unit)
  • Clear plastic tubing to fit bleed nipples
  • Small catch bottle and fresh reservoir funnel or fluid bottle with bleeder adapter
  • Wrenches for bleed nipples (often 8 mm or 10 mm) and wrench for master cylinder reservoir cap
  • Clean rags and isopropyl alcohol for cleanup
  • Torque wrench (recommended) or feel for correct tightness
  • Helper for pedal pumping or a pressure/vacuum bleeder
  • Protective gloves and eye protection

Model-specific notes for the 2013 Outlander MAX 500 DPS

  • The Outlander MAX 500 DPS has hydraulic brakes for both front and rear; it features Dynamic Power Steering (DPS) hydraulics that are separate from the brake system — do not open or mix DPS fluid with brake fluid.
  • Confirm brake fluid spec printed on the master cylinder reservoir cap; replace with same spec only. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture; schedule fluid change about every 2 years or sooner if contaminated.
  • The ATV uses independent calipers on each wheel; bleeding order should start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and end with the nearest wheel.
  • Bleed nipple threads and caliper bodies are typically soft aluminum — avoid over-tightening. Typical snug torque for bleed nipples is low; if using torque values, target approximately 6–8 ft-lb (8–11 Nm). If unsure, hand-tighten then add a small quarter-turn.

Safety first

  • Work on a level surface, block wheels, and secure the ATV. Use jack stands if lifting.
  • Brake fluid damages paint & plastics — protect painted surfaces and wipe spills immediately with isopropyl alcohol.
  • Never reuse drained brake fluid; dispose of it per local regulations.

Step-by-step: drain & replace brake fluid

  1. Prepare: Park ATV cool and level. Remove seat/panels as needed to access master cylinder reservoir(s). Clean reservoir cap area thoroughly to avoid contamination.
  2. Open reservoir: Remove cap and diaphragm, then siphon or use a turkey-baster to remove most old fluid. Refill reservoir with fresh brake fluid to the max line to minimize air intake during bleeding.
  3. Identify bleed sequence: Locate master cylinder position & determine wheel distance. Typical sequence for the Outlander MAX 500 DPS: rear brake first (farthest), then right-front (passenger) next, then left-front (driver) last. If your machine has a different layout, always do farthest to nearest.
  4. Fit clear tubing: Push one end over the bleed nipple and place the other end into a catch bottle partially filled with fresh fluid to prevent air being pulled back into the line.
  5. Bleed with helper (pump method): Have a helper pump the brake lever/pedal several times and hold firm. Open the bleed nipple a 1/4–1/2 turn to let fluid flow until it runs clear and bubble-free, then close the nipple before the helper releases the lever/pedal. Repeat until fluid is clear and free of air. Maintain reservoir level — do not allow it to run dry.
  6. Alternative: Use a pressure or vacuum bleeder for a one-person job. Follow the tool manufacturer’s instructions and again bleed wheels from farthest to nearest.
  7. Repeat for each wheel: After the first wheel is clear, move to the next in the sequence. Always top off the reservoir between wheels and keep it at the max line.
  8. Final reservoir fill: Once all wheels are bled, fill to max line, securely reinstall diaphragm and cap. Cycle the brake lever/pedal several times to confirm firm pressure and that no sponginess remains.
  9. Check for leaks: Inspect bleed nipples, hose fittings and master cylinder. Tighten bleed nipples snugly; check torque guidelines if available. Clean any spilled fluid.
  10. Test ride: With caution, perform slow low-speed braking tests in a safe area to confirm braking performance before normal use.

Troubleshooting

  • Persistent spongy lever/pedal: Possible remaining air, a leaking line, or a failing master cylinder. Re-bleed and inspect lines, hoses, caliper seals and the master cylinder reservoir for contamination or leaks.
  • Continuous bubbling during bleed: Check for an air leak at hose connections, a cracked hose, or a loose bleed nipple. Replace any damaged components.
  • Contaminated fluid (dark, gritty): Complete flush recommended and inspect caliper pistons & seals for wear.

Maintenance schedule & tips

  • Replace brake fluid every 24 months or sooner if it appears dark or contaminated.
  • Inspect brake lines and hoses for soft spots, bulging or cracks annually.
  • Keep brake calipers and rotors clean of dirt and debris common to off-road use; remove embedded grit to prevent accelerated wear.
  • Because the Outlander MAX 500 is often used in wet/muddy terrain, rinse brakes with clean water after heavy exposure and dry by a few firm brake applications to prevent corrosion.

If you need parts or replacement bleed kits for your 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 500 DPS, use the MotoSport parts page linked above to find DOT fluid, bleed nipples, hoses, and caliper hardware matched to this MMY.

Related Shopping Categories

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Shop Brake Lines for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 500 DPS ATV.

Shop Brake Tools for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 500 DPS ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.