How to Bleed & Replace Brake Fluid on a 2007 Can-Am RALLY 200

Shop parts for a 2007 Can-Am RALLY 200 ATV.

This MotoSport-exclusive guide walks you through safely flushing and replacing the brake fluid on a 2007 Can-Am RALLY 200. Follow these steps carefully to restore pedal feel and braking performance. Work in a clean, well-ventilated area, wear eye protection and nitrile gloves, and keep brake fluid off painted surfaces – it will damage paint and plastics.

What you’ll need

  • Fresh DOT 4 brake fluid (Can-Am RALLY 200 typically uses DOT 4 — verify your owner’s manual)
  • Large clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleed nipple
  • Catch bottle for old fluid
  • Brake bleeder wrench or open-end wrench sized to the bleed nipple
  • Syringe, turkey-baster, vacuum pump, or one-person pressure bleeder
  • Clean rags and isopropyl alcohol for cleaning components
  • Jack or ramps if you need better access (support machine securely)

Notes specific to the 2007 Can-Am RALLY 200

  • The RALLY 200 uses a simple master cylinder and caliper setup without factory ABS on most units, making bench-top or pump/vacuum bleeding straightforward.
  • Reservoir location is on the handlebar/master cylinder assembly; ensure the machine is upright and level so reservoir fluid level stays consistent while bleeding.
  • Stock brake lines are rubber; inspect lines and banjo fittings for age, cracking, or leaks while you’re servicing the system. Replace if questionable.
  • If the machine has aftermarket luggage or racks installed, remove anything that might obstruct reservoir access or prevent the handlebars from turning freely.

Preparation

  1. Park the ATV on level ground, set parking brake if equipped, and stabilize with a center stand or ramps. Turn the handlebars so you can access the master cylinder reservoir easily.
  2. Clean the reservoir cap area thoroughly with a rag and alcohol to prevent contamination when opening.
  3. Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm. Top off with fresh DOT 4 to the maximum mark — do not overfill.
  4. Start with the wheel/caliper farthest from the master cylinder and finish at the closest. On most RALLY 200s this means rear caliper(s) first then the front caliper(s). If uncertain, use the visually farthest caliper from the master cylinder.

Bleeding method A – One-person (vacuum or syringe)

  1. Fit clear tubing over the bleed nipple and place the other end into the catch bottle partly filled with old fluid to prevent air re-entry.
  2. Attach a vacuum pump to the tubing or use a syringe to gently draw fluid out while a helper slowly squeezes the brake lever/pedal. If using vacuum, apply steady pull; do not allow master cylinder reservoir to run dry.
  3. Have the helper apply steady, even strokes on the lever/pedal and hold it down while you open and close the bleed nipple: open to let fluid/air out, close before the lever/pedal is released. Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid flows and no air appears.
  4. After each cycle, top the reservoir with fresh fluid to prevent sucking air back in. Keep the reservoir cap off but diaphragm in place if possible to minimize contamination.
  5. Tighten the bleed nipple to snug when finished, wipe any spilled fluid, and move to the next caliper.

Bleeding method B – Two-person (traditional)

  1. One person pumps the brake lever/pedal several times and holds it under firm pressure.
  2. The second person opens the bleed nipple to let fluid/air escape, then closes it before the lever is released. Repeat until clear fluid flows and no air is present.
  3. Top off the reservoir between cycles. Finish each caliper before moving on.

Full system flush (recommended)

For a full fluid replacement, repeat the bleeding cycle at every caliper until the fluid emerging is new and clear, then replace the reservoir fluid with fresh DOT 4 to the correct level and reinstall the cap and diaphragm. Properly dispose of old brake fluid according to local regulations.

Finishing checks

  • With all bleed nipples tightened, pump the brake lever/pedal several times to verify a firm feel. If sponginess remains, re-bleed the system.
  • Inspect for leaks at bleed nipples, banjo bolts and line fittings. Tighten as needed but avoid over-torquing metal fittings.
  • Clean any fluid spills from painted areas immediately with a damp cloth and isopropyl alcohol.
  • Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before riding normally.

Troubleshooting

  • Persistent soft lever/pedal: likely air still present or a leaking/reservoir seal problem — re-bleed and inspect the master cylinder for internal leaks.
  • Brake drag after bleeding: check caliper pistons and pads for sticking, and ensure hose routing isn’t twisted.
  • If you run into unclear components, collapsed hoses, or persistent problems, replace aging rubber lines and consider installing stainless braided lines for improved feel.

Maintenance tips & owner reminders

  • Brake fluid attracts moisture over time – change every 1-2 years depending on storage and use for reliable braking.
  • Always use the correct DOT specification (DOT 4 typically) and never mix DOT 3/5/5.1 without confirming compatibility.
  • Store brake fluid sealed and discard any fluid left in an opened bottle after several months.
  • Keep a small service kit with spare crush washers for banjo bolts and a spare bleed cap on hand when you work on the system.

Performing a careful bleed and fluid replacement restores braking performance and extends the life of your RALLY 200’s hydraulic system. If you have doubts about mechanical integrity or internal master cylinder issues, consult a qualified technician.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Brake Fluid for a 2007 Can-Am RALLY 200 ATV.

Shop Brake Bleeders for a 2007 Can-Am RALLY 200 ATV.

Shop Brake Pads for a 2007 Can-Am RALLY 200 ATV.

Shop Brake Lines for a 2007 Can-Am RALLY 200 ATV.

Shop Brake Tools for a 2007 Can-Am RALLY 200 ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.