How to Bleed & Replace Brake Fluid on a 2000 Arctic Cat 400 4X4

Shop parts for a 2000 Arctic Cat 400 4X4 ATV.

This MotoSport-exclusive guide walks you through safely draining, flushing, and bleeding the brake system on a 2000 Arctic Cat 400 4X4. Follow each step carefully, use proper safety gear, and dispose of old fluid responsibly.

Tools & Supplies

  • Brake fluid (use DOT 3 or DOT 4 as specified by Arctic Cat; avoid mixing DOT 5 silicone)
  • Clear hose that fits bleed nipples
  • Catch bottle for old fluid
  • Brake bleeder wrench or appropriate open-end wrench
  • Turkey baster or fluid transfer pump (optional for master cylinder)
  • Clean rags, shop towels
  • Brake cleaner
  • Latex or nitrile gloves and eye protection
  • Jack or ramps and stands (if needed to access calipers/sprocket area)

Safety Precautions

  • Work on a level, stable surface with the engine off and key removed.
  • Brake fluid damages paint & plastics — protect painted surfaces and immediately clean any spills with brake cleaner and water.
  • Do not reuse brake fluid; collect it and dispose of it per local regulations.

Model Notes  — 2000 Arctic Cat 400 4X4

  • The 2000 Arctic Cat 400 4X4 typically uses a conventional hydraulic brake system with a single master cylinder and front/rear calipers/drums depending on configuration. Confirm your machine's configuration before starting.
  • Older seals and rubber lines may be brittle on this vintage model; inspect hoses, banjo bolt crush washers, caliper pistons, and the master cylinder for leaks or deterioration while the system is open.
  • If the master cylinder reservoir cap or diaphragm is badly deteriorated, replace the cap and diaphragm to prevent contamination or air ingress.
  • If you find spongy lever feel after bleeding, suspect collapsed hoses or a worn master cylinder — replace rather than repeatedly bleeding.

Preparation

  1. Park bike upright or use a center stand. Remove any body panels blocking reservoir or bleed nipples.
  2. Clean around the master cylinder reservoir cap to prevent dirt falling in. Remove cap and diaphragm carefully.
  3. Top reservoir with fresh brake fluid to the fill mark. Keep the reservoir capped between steps to limit air entry.
  4. Locate bleed nipples at calipers/brake cylinders; fit clear hose over the nipple and route to a catch bottle partially filled with fresh fluid to prevent sucking air back.

Flushing & Bleeding Procedure – Single Technician Method (Bench/Lever Method)

  1. Start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work toward the closest. Common sequence: rear, then front near, then front far — verify layout on your machine.
  2. With helper or using a hand-pump/lever technique: Have one person slowly squeeze the brake lever or pedal several times and hold pressure. If solo, clamp lever with a strap or use a pressure bleeder/hand pump designed for brake systems.
  3. Open the bleed nipple 1/4 turn. Fluid and air will purge into the hose. Close the nipple before the lever is released to avoid drawing air in.
  4. Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid exits and the lever feel is firm. Keep reservoir topped to avoid running dry.
  5. Move to the next wheel in the sequence and repeat. After all wheels are bled, perform a final pass in the reverse sequence (closest to farthest) to ensure no trapped air remains.

Alternative — Vacuum or Pressure Bleeder

  • Attach vacuum pump to bleed nipple or a pressure bleeder to the reservoir. Follow manufacturer instructions. These methods speed the job and are helpful when working alone.

Master Cylinder Service

  • If fluid in reservoir is dark, contaminated, or the master cylinder shows leakage, remove, disassemble, and rebuild or replace using an OEM or quality aftermarket master rebuild kit. Clean all passages with brake cleaner and compressed air before reassembly.
  • After reinstalling/master servicing, prime the system and bleed again starting at the farthest wheel.

Bleed Tips Specific to Older Arctic Cat 400 4X4s

  • Banjo bolts often use crush washers that should be replaced when disturbed. Keep spare copper washers on hand.
  • Corroded bleed nipples can be fragile; apply penetrating oil and work carefully to avoid rounding. Use proper-size wrenches.
  • If calipers haven't been moved in years, pistons may be sticky. Consider rebuilding calipers or replacing seals if movement is sluggish or leaks are present.

Final Checks & Road Test

  1. Ensure all bleed nipples are tightened to spec snugness (avoid overtightening). Wipe excess fluid from components.
  2. Confirm reservoir is at proper level and cap is secured with diaphragm properly seated.
  3. With the ATV still supported, apply brakes repeatedly to confirm firm feel and no leaks.
  4. Perform a cautious low-speed test ride in a safe area to confirm braking performance and pedal/lever firmness.

Maintenance Schedule & Recommendations

  • Replace brake fluid every 1-2 years, or sooner if moisture contamination is suspected.
  • Inspect hoses, lines, fittings, and calipers annually on this vintage model. Replace aging rubber lines proactively.
  • Use only DOT-specified fluids; mixing incompatible fluids can damage seals and shorten component life.

Following these steps will restore correct hydraulic pressure and reliable braking on your 2000 Arctic Cat 400 4X4. If you encounter persistent sponginess, visible leaks, or internal master/cylinder damage, consult a qualified technician or consider replacement components to ensure safety.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.