With the fall season underway it's always a good idea to do some routine maintenance. Rockstar Energy Racing's "JT" takes you through all the steps to inspect and change your oil as well as all other liquids on the bike including front brake, clutch, coolant and rear brake.

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Hey what's up. It's JT here at the Rockstar Energy racing shop in Corona, California and seasons are changing, fall is here and it's a good indicator that it's time to do some routine maintenance on your bike.

Today we're going to talk about checking your fluids top to bottom:

  • Brake fluid for your front brake
  • Hydraulic clutch
  • Coolant
  • Oil
  • Rear brake

Tools you?re going to need:

  • Can of brake cleaner
  • Coolant
  • Engine oil
  • Torx driver size T20
  • 8mm T-handle
  • 13mm socket
  • 21mm wrench
  • 13mm wrench
  • Oil filter
  • Drain pan

Check Front Brake Fluid

Alright, starting from the top we're going to check the front brake fluid level. There's a window on the back of the master cylinder and there should be a bubble on the top of the window.

We'll take our T20 torx driver and remove these screws. Alright, to top off the front brake fluid we use DOT 4.

A little trade secret here, instead of removing this foil seal that's on your brake fluid on a new bottle, I just take a screwdriver and poke a small hole in there that way fluid doesn't spill all over your bike. Alright, the next thing we'll do is actually add brake fluid to the front master cylinder. You don't want to overfill your front brake fluid, you just want to fill it up to the top of your site window.

Once your front bake master cylinder is filled to the proper level, you simply replace your cap, your two screws, and tighten your screws with your torx driver.

Check Hydraulic Clutch (if applicable)

On this particular bike we have a hydraulic clutch. These are the only bikes that come with hydraulic clutches, although you can get them after market for other bikes. We're going to check the fluid on that by also taking your torx driver, removing the screws, and checking the level of your fluid.

It looks like the level is a little bit low, so I'm going to top it off until the fluid level is at that line right there inside the cap on this particular bike. I'll slowly add some DOT 4, just like that.

Check Coolant

Alright, the next thing we're going to do after checking our hydraulic clutch and our front brake - we're going to move on to the coolant. Coolant is very important, especially after riding in the heat during the summer. It's cool down here in the fall so you just want to top it off and make sure your coolant is good.

Slowly poor it in, just to the levels of the very bottom of the filler neck there. Once we're finished, we'll replace the radiator cap. You stick it on there, push down, turn it clockwise.

Now if you had to add a lot of coolant it could indicate that something is wrong with your bike. You could have a leak somewhere, like a blown head gasket, a hose leaking or something like that. If you had to add a lot of coolant, find out why before you ride your bike.

Change Oil and Oil Filter

Moving on, the next thing we're going to do is change our oil and our oil filter.

The first step in changing your oil, you want to start the bike and run it for about three minutes or so to warm the oil up, mix up all the contaminants, and get the most out of changing your oil.

Alright, the next step you want to drain the oil. On this particular bike the drain plug is on the bottom of the motor, on the left hand side. It's a 13mm plug that you'll remove and drain the oil into your drain pan.

The next step in changing your oil is remove your oil filter screen as well as your oil filter. There's a 13mm plug that holds in your oil filter screen. That's on the left side of the motor at the bottom, and there's an oil filter cover that's held on by 8mm bolts. The first thing you want to do when you remove this strainer is check for any large pieces of metal indicating you could have a problem inside of your gear box.

If everything looks good, which it does, we'll just blow it off with some compressed air and brake cleaner and it's ready to go back in the engine. Take some compressed air and just blow it off until it's dry and clean. Once your strainer is cleaned, I just set it aside on a nice, clean towel.

Next thing we'll do is remove the oil filter. With 8mm T-handle remove these two bolts, remove the oil filter. Once your oil filter cover is removed, you can pull the oil filter out.

Alright, we'll take our clean strainer and we'll slide it right back in the engine, replace the 13mm plug, then we'll tighten. Once again, if you have a torque wrench, you'll tighten this to 11 foot pounds.

Last thing we'll do is stick in our 13mm drain plug, the torque spec on this particular plug is 14 foot pounds. Next thing we'll do is add oil to the engine. The filler cap is located on the right side of the motorcycle on this particular bike. We'll take our filler cap off, we'll add oil using a funnel, and you'll add oil until it gets to the middle of the site window on this bike.

To better show you where the site window is, I have the engine out of the bike here on the bench. Your going to look at your window, when you top your oil off just make sure it's to the middle of this site window. You can go a little bit more than that if you want to but as long as you're in that window your going to be good.

The reason I showed you the check window out of the bike is because it's really hard to see in the footage here, but it's just right behind the rear brake pedal and it's visible when you're adding oil.

Once the level is where I want it in the window, I replace my filler cap. The last thing I'm going to do is start the bike and run it for two to three minutes, let oil circulate through the engine, and then recheck the oil level with the site window.

Check Rear Brake Fluid

The last step on our fluid checks on the bike, is to check the level of the rear brake fluid. Checking your rear brake fluid is a lot like the front brake. There's a site window on the back of the master cylinder that you want to check. If your fluid level is low, there's a 21mm cap, you want to remove to top the fluid off. I'll tighten the cap just until it's snug, and just careful not to over-tighten that cap.

Once these checks are made and tour fluid is topped off, you're ready to hit the track.